Wandering in the long and puzzling hutong of Beijing, there is perhaps no other experience that can give you an intense feeling of being in the heart of this historic city.
The rattling of bikes, those drum-shaped bearing stones crouching outside gates that line up the zigzagging alley, and nowadays even the mystery hidden behind the solid walls is becoming transparent as some private residences have been opened to guests either to take a look or even, to stay for a couple of days.
Located northwest to the drum tower, the Jinghuo tr
aditional Courtyard started its hostel career with the 2008 Olympics Games, and this cozy yard with seven guest rooms received more tourists than any other host family last August.
Ms. Wang, hostess of the courtyard, is the fourth generation of the family that has been living here. She said it was the Olympics and guests that made her home much more significant, and she was most impressed by a bunch of youngsters from Australia.
[QUOTE: Ms. Wang, Hostess of Jinghuo Traditional Courtyard]
There were six of them at first. But then the whole courtyard was occupied by their friends.
Even when there was no vacant room, they’d rather sleep on the floor.
They had their bicycles airlifted from Australia and went out by bike everyday rain or shine, holding their national flags. It felt so young being with them. They were full of energy.
It rained one day. I gave them umbrellas but they refused to take them. They ran out bare-footed, running around Houhai for a lap. I think they were the sports type.
[VOICE OVER]
Ms. Wang said they had more than one hundred Olympic tickets and thanks to them, she was bestowed with the once-in-a-life opportunity to watch an event on the spot.
[QUOTE: Ms. Wang, Hostess of Jinghuo Traditional Courtyard]
They gave us 2 tickets but my son didn’t have time. I was there with my sister’s child. My son said he might still have the opportunity but it was impossible for me to witness another Beijing Olympics. It was really different when you were on the spot from watching it on TV. The atmosphere was very spirit lifting. It was very impressive.
[VOICE OVER]
This is Ms. Wang’s son Wang Heng. It was actually his idea in the first place to apply for the Olympic home stay scheme and both Ms. Wang and her mother were very supportive.
The whole family started their preparation immediately. This included redecorating the courtyard according to Ms. Wang’s mother’s memory of her old home, and equipping every guest room with a bathroom, television and internet access.
[QUOTE: Ms. Wang, Hostess of Jinghuo Traditional Courtyard]
My mum has spent all her pension on it. She was brought up in this yard so she’s got a deep emotion for it. She felt very fortunate that she could see the Olympics held in Beijing.
Mum says Jiaozi (sedan chair) is the oldest transportation tool of China. There are many overseas guests coming to our courtyard. It was like having a car if you had a Jiaozi. That’s why we asked the painter to draw us a Jiaozi with peonies on it. And it’s red which symbolizes good luck.
The rickshaw is a part of a collection. It used to belong to a rickshaw puller family in the Houhai area. But they had no place to store it after they were relocated. The rickshaw was thus left outdoors and got very shabby. Our friends helped fix it with us.
[VOICE OVER]
However, problems came very soon despite of all her efforts. As the daily rent of 400 to 600 yuan during the Games and 300-460 afterwards was already low given the renovation cost of some hundred thousand, the booking rate slid dramatically with the end of the Olympics. Few people know there is such a hostel and even if they know it, it is not easy for them to find the courtyard hidden in a narrow alley of an unfamiliar city.
[QUOTE: Ms. Wang, Hostess of Jinghuo Traditional Courtyard]
There were 4 people from Chongqing. They tried several taxies but still couldn’t find us until they were about to leave Beijing. They cooked us Sichuan Cuisine but didn’t have time to live here.
It was after the Olympics that we found even many Chinese couldn’t find this place. It shouldn’t be like this in the information society nowadays. And my son suggested we should have our own website.
[VOICE OVER]
With the help of the Internet, Jinghuo courtyard began to resume its liveliness from January. Many came from the south to see the winter here or to celebrate the Spring Festival.
[QUOTE: Ms. Wang, Hostess of Jinghuo Traditional Courtyard]
Some guests from South China were here when it snowed this year. A little girl, about 5 or 6 years old, made a small snowball and played with it in her hands. She treasured it a lot because she had never seen snow before in her hometown.
[VOICE OVER]
As another August comes, Ms. Wang is busy again because summer has brought with it a booking peak.
Talking about the future, she confessed the status quo is that the cost hasn’t been recovered yet. But once they start to make money, it’ll be used to preserve the heritage for her ancestor and to improve the living conditions for the guests.
Video: Christie Lee & Cao Huan
Script: Christie Lee