Maojiabu Village was famous for its food and scenery back in the Tang Dynasty when poet and Hangzhou "mayor" Bai Juyi used to visit a friend's home to eat, drink and gaze at West Lake. Qian Yanwen follows the trail.

The beautiful west shore of West Lake is attracting more tourists these days, especially to Maojiabu Village known for its scenery, pilgrimage trail, hiking, country cooking and Longjing (dragon well) tea.

Maojiabu, which retains traditional architecture, is the starting point of the famous shangxiang gudao (ancient trail for pilgrimage). The area is ideal for hiking and also offers charming tea houses and eateries famous for local delicacies.

Maojiabu does have a history of dining. Bai Juyi, a legendary poet of Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907), was the prefecture chief of ancient Hangzhou.

The free-spirited administrator loved to saunter around the West Lake and once dropped by to see a friend, a citizen named Zhao Yu who built a high spacious home with a spectacular view of the West Lake.

Bai often visited to dine and drink. Once when they were a bit drunk, Zhao summoned up the courage to ask for an inscription by the poet. Bai agreed with pleasure and wrote two characters, Zui Bai, meaning "Bai Juyi is enchanted" - with the food, the wine, the family company, the scenery.

Zhao was delighted and had the inscription made into a plaque, which he placed high on the building where it could be admired.

Today there is still a Zui Bai restaurant in Maojiabu, and others as well.

The best time to visit is on a clear sunny day when visitors can breathe the aroma of cooking food from various types of restaurants.

Those who seek a lively countryside experience should visit places such as Shiweixian where food is cooked in the yard and diners gather around tables. The scene looks much like a large rural family hosting a wedding feast.

The specialty is stewed duck in a special sauce, with glutinous rice. It can also be eaten cold. On the recommendation list are the bamboo chicken and sugarcane grown by the restaurant owner.

Those who prefer eating indoors can enjoy authentic Hangzhou food in Jiangnan A'er restaurant. It is decorated in traditional southern China style with comfortable sofas and stone tables.

The soup is famous. Two big kettles are simmering every day; soup must be cooked for seven or eight hours before it is served.

Also recommended are pumpkin juice and fish stewed with cabbage. The place is popular so it's best to go before 7pm.

A less-crowded outdoor eatery is Chadu, so low profile that it doesn't have a sign. Foodies love it. Guests can eat outdoors, sitting at bamboo tables set on a zigzag bridge. The mashed taro covered with osmanthus is popular.

Maojiabu Village is famous for Longjing tea and there are plenty of tea houses and eateries where one can sip tea and appreciate the scenery of tea plantations, just like poet Bai Juyi.

Maojiabu is more crowded on weekends and during vacations.

Shiweixian

Address: 205 Maojiabu Rd

Chadu

Address: 83 Longjing Rd

Jiangnan A'er

Address: 33 Longjing Rd

Source: Shanghai Daily