Montmartre artists worry about their future

Globalization has not spared the painters of Montmartre, who are as much a part of Paris as the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame. They are increasingly finding themselves in competition with reproductions from China being sold in nearby galleries and souvenir shops at dumping prices.

It is not just the cheap made-in-China imitations that are threatening their existence. They also face competition from artists working illegally at Place du Tertre, the legendary area of Paris on the hill around Sacre Coeur.

There is still a hint of the erstwhile artists' quarter present at the plaza that once attracted artists such as Renoir, van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso and Braquem, but the artists there today are concerned about the reputation of their art.

"The legend of the Montmartre artists soon won't exist any longer," one embittered artist says. The 58-year-old who identified himself only as Alain would know because he first set up his easel on the plaza 35 years ago.

There are about 300 artists holding one of the coveted licenses to work on the Place du Tertre. They are not, however, under threat of extinction. The waiting list to get a license is long. Nevertheless, they worry about the end of a tradition.

"On one hand the fight for survival gets harder all the time, on the other our image is getting worse," says Montmartre artist Marie-Noelle Romvos.

Many tourists who visit Sacre Coeur are intercepted by illegal artists before they go into the basilica. Portraits costing between $19 and $25 are not the only things ruining prices.

"Often the portraits are so bad that people are disappointed, which also hurts our image," Romvos says.

In defense of her craft the 55-year-old founded an association of portrait artists. Portraits and caricatures are among the most popular genres requested. The logic of pure profit-making has also penetrated Montmartre and the artists adapt to the tastes of the customers.

"Unfortunately, because of this a uniform style of painting is permeating the art," Romvos says.

The Montmartre portrait artists have been at Place du Tertre since 1976. At that time it was still possible to offer to draw there without a permit based on the principle that the first artist there could draw or paint first. That had its advantages.

"I often came here at 6 in the morning to get a place," Romvos says.

Then the rules were put in place that are still in effect today: Only artists who meet the strict criteria and are registered with the Maison des Artistes, the French state artists' association, are allowed to work and sell their art on the plaza.

Today two artists share a space that is about 1 square meter in size by working in shifts.

"That has worked well and is sufficient to earn a living, but today our prices have slipped into the cellar," Romvos says.

The organization she founded for the preservation of the Montmartre artists is one of five. At least they are able to take action against rent increases.