New Barolo cook promises taste of his Italian heritage

Ivan Fargnoli has been appointed chef de cuisine of Barolo, the well-known Italian restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton Beijing. Fargnoli became a professional chef at the age of 16 in his hometown Milan, known as the world's fashion capital. There he got the opportunity to learn in a famous Michelin-starred restaurant. At 21, he had already worked in Shanghai as sous chef of a five-star hotel. Here he talks about his new gig.

What do you like to cook when you are not in a professional kitchen?

In my childhood I remember I used to cook with my Nonno (grandfather) while visiting him in Southern Italy just north of Naples. Waking up to beautiful sunny days during my school vacation with the wonderful aroma coming from his kitchen, I would rush down to help Nonno make his famous meatballs. Then in late summer, there was the annual tomato festival, during which time we made homemade Napoli sauce ready for the winter.

So when I am not in Barolo, you could find me at home making meatballs, spaghetti with Napoli sauce finished with freshly shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano (Parmesan cheese), which brings back some memories of home and my childhood.

How would you sum up your cooking philosophy?

Freshness, light, subtle flavor that can compliment and balance a dish while still calling upon my heritage from Italy.

What are your thoughts on the differences between the gourmet philosophies of Chinese and Italian cuisines?

Well, with Chinese history of cooking dating back thousands of years, Italian cuisine of course had been inspired by Chinese cuisine. Our countries' partnership goes back centuries with Marco Polo, for example, so our philosophies are very similar - like our family would gather together, all sharing the cooking, the dining experience.

What's your favorite Chinese food?

Hot pot - Sichuan of course is a favorite, and also Hunnan cuisine.

Having worked in renowned restaurants across Beijing, ShangHai, Dubai, the Middle East, the UK, Switzerland and Italy, what is the most exciting kitchen you have worked in?

Dubai, I would say. This is due to the international cultures and demographic of the hotel teams, for example we had 30 nationalities in one kitchen of a brigade of 42 chefs - great learning experience. But more importantly, some great friends were made whom I still talk to today.

What new ideas would you bring to the wine and dining menus at Barolo restaurant?

The direction we are going in Barolo at The Ritz-Carlton Beijing is to call upon the Italian classics along with my 15 years in Italian kitchens. We will have some contemporary innovations to some modern classics, so you will need to come in and dine at Barolo. Also, I have been listening to some of our guests and introduced some dishes that have been requested.

What's your idol in the culinary circle?

Thomas Keller from French Laundry, Napa Valley, for his style, his philosophy on food as well as the number of great chefs that he has mentored through the years.

If you could only eat one dish for the rest of your life, what would it be?

Nonno's meat balls, spaghetti Napoli sauce.

Would you think being a chef enhances your masculinity?

Yes.

If you had the chance to have THE best culinary experience, where would you go?

French Laundry, Napa Valley, California.

Contact the writer at dongfangyu@chinadaily.com