A little bit country, a little bit city

At first glance, the chef is a departure from the Italian male stereotype. He's more cuddly puppy than smoldering dark-eyed Casanova, and it is not until you taste his food that you are left with no doubt that he's Italian. Very much so.

Eugenio Iraci is the chef de cuisine at Barolo, Ritz-Carlton Beijing, and he's keeping the standards flying with his northern Italian flavors.

His dishes offer a satisfying tour of the best of country, with a little bit city thrown in.

The seasonal menu at Barolo is designed to bolster diners against the cold and arid Beijing winter.

Flavors are full and rustic, such as the braised pork belly with a roasted skin that's laid on a bed of puy lentils. It is comfort food for cold weather, honest tastes that comes from the best meat and earthy lentils.

Then there is the stewed beef cheek on garlic mashed potatoes simply garnished with a sprig of thyme - rich meat that fills the mouth with juices and a garlic mash that adds to the satisfaction.

But it is the pasta dish that makes diners roll their eyes heavenwards. Not quite a ravioli, the chef says, but pockets more inspired by Chinese pasta. Tender pasta lovingly encases whole egg yolks, and the packets are then poached before being served with bright pieces of broccoli and generous shavings of seasonal truffles. It is a taste sensation, and shows off the sophisticated, if playful, side of the chef.

Cast your cholesterol concerns aside just this once. This dish is a must-try for the genuine food-lover who is after a perfect balance of textures, taste and a surprising burst of yolk that coats the palate with luxury and abandonment.

It is obvious Iraci enjoys cooking and creating, an impression that is well and truly cemented by his vanilla custard pudding served with hazelnut ice-cream and a hot chocolate sauce.

Pure drama on the table takes place when the dessert arrives, a goblet capped by a piece of solid chocolate slab. Just as you are wondering if you should chip away at the cover, a waiter quietly arrives elbow-side and pours a hot chocolate sauce that melts away all resistance.

Sheer decadence, but who can say no to velvety vanilla custard and a nutty icecream topped with hot chocolate sauce?

Barolo's new menu is a fresh take on regional Italian.

There is a crab salad that comes with caviar and watermelon, and lobster bisque jelly, but there is also a simple buffalo milk mozzarella, tomato and basil salad.

Again, it is his selection of gourmet pasta that will attract the most attention - a salmon ravioli, a Boston lobster fettuccini, a squid ink tagliolini and a smoked tagliatelle with Wagyu beef, goose liver, veal jus and truffles.

Barolo is already well-known in Beijing for its haute cuisine, Italian-style. It's time for another visit to meet the new chef.

paulined@chinadaily.com.cn