Traditional with a twist

Up-and-coming designer Ding Youqiao is one of a stable of local talent promoted by Brand New China in Beijing. Chen Nan takes a look.

Ding Youqiao's resume looks glamorous. At the Academy of Arts and Design of Tsinghua University, she was an A-list student and won scholarships every year. After graduating in 2007, she won the golden prize at China International Fashion Week. During her studies at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, she won first prize in a competition run by Louis Vuitton, which enabled her to work as an intern at the luxury brand in 2009.

However, when Ding graduated and returned to Beijing, she felt at a loss. She knew what she wanted to do but didn't know where to start until she saw reports about Brand New China, a store based in Beijing.

"It (BNC) is a great platform for young designers to start," says Ding, who founded her brand, Jo, in 2011.

Ding, together with other Chinese designers, presented her latest collection at BNC's 2013 Summer show. The collection was inspired by women's apparel from the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279).

By using black, white and blue, Ding says she hopes to give consumers a cool and comfortable touch for the summer.

"While studying in London, I developed a special love for traditional Chinese clothes. Though I lived in an environment full of Western culture, I was eager to explore the fashion elements of our own tradition," she says.

Thus, she focused on establishing a style called Qing Zhong Shi, or light Chinese style, when she returned to China.

While doing market research, Ding found most people believe traditional items of clothing are not seen as trendy. So, she went for a traditional look, with a twist.

The experience of working at Louis Vuitton also taught Ding how important detail is in design.

BNC's 2013 Summer collection proved to be a big hit and the owner, Hung Huang, the media mogul, iLook magazine founder and TV presenter, says: "Chinese design blossoms tonight" on her Sina Weibo micro blog, which has more than 7 million fans.

The fashion show, Blossom, was presented by dancers from the Beijing Modern Dance Company, accompanied by Igor Stravinsky's ballet score The Rite of Spring. The show gathers the latest clothes and accessories from BNC's designers, including Ding Youqiao, Li Wei and Fan Ran.

Li, who founded her brand Awaylee 10 years ago, also reached a wide range of consumers via BNC. Using materials like velvet, silk and organza, Li maintains her elegant and romantic design work in her new collections.

"It's encouraging to see that more and more Chinese consumers are recognizing domestic designers' works. From international runway shows to celebrities wearing Chinese designers' clothes, we have many ways to be exposed to the world," Li says.

Opened four years ago, BNC is the brainchild of Hung, whose iLook magazine has been focusing on Chinese designers since it was established in 1998.

Located in Beijing's Sanlitun, where Armani and Versace are upstairs neighbors, the 540-square-meter store gathers more than 200 of China's designers and is dedicated to promoting China's homegrown fashion.

Since its launch, BNC has produced clothes and furniture by local talents. The Chinese name and logo for BNC, as designed by graphic designer Liu Zhizhi, conveys the transition from simply "Made in China" to "Designed in China".

Hung's friend, veteran architect Chang Yongho, helped designed the store and debuted his men's wear collection there. Hung says: "Sometimes I feel like we've opened an exhibition center rather than a store."

Betting that the growing wealth and sophistication of Chinese consumers will help cultivate China's own Cartier or Louis Vuitton, Hung is investing her money and using her celebrity status to promote local brands.

Contact the writer at chennan@chinadaily.com.cn.