Playing hide and seek in a war torn village

Forget about Beijing's chaotic tourist traps this season and take a trip instead to a quiet rural getaway, Liu Yujie reports

With a couple of traditional holidays coming up fast, now is time to start planning ahead for a calming day on the outskirts of Beijing. And if you are fed up with over-developed tourist spots, Linshuicun, an ancient village in the suburbs of Mentougou district, might be just up your street.

Upon arrival, a quick look at the village, nestling at the foot of the mountains, may make you think it takes less than 30 minutes to walk the route. However, when you actually make the trek along its meandering lanes, the morning will slip by unnoticed.

Instead, what you do notice are shadowed nooks and crannies, tight streets and curious doorways that spark a long lost desire to relive the days of hide and seek.

You will probably also check out how the architecture has preserved the cultures of a significant past. Exquisite carvings on brick, stone and wood document the superb craftsmanship of two centuries ago and the layout of courtyard houses are the epitome of etiquette in China's feudal hierarchical societies.

At its most prosperous, the village had more than 2,000 people and was famous for producing 22 juren - successful candidates in the imperial examinations at the provincial level, during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Villagers attribute the honor to good fengshui, referring to mountains surrounding the north and water in the south.

These days, however, most young people have moved to the cities and there are only about 700 elderly people living in the remaining 200 households. The reputation remains though and each year, superstitious parents bring their children to the village to soak up a little luck before academic examinations.

The historical feel also makes the village a perfect spot for shooting films and dramas set during the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression (1937-45) - providing sets and accommodation for film crews has become a supporting industry.

The dilapidated temple on the mountainside, which is more than 1,000 years old, is laden with bullet holes and traces of smoke are visible.

Visitors will discover that at some point in the afternoon, a male voice with a dense country dialect repeating an announcement on the loudspeakers three times. With the war still resonating in your mind, it will feel distinctly like the warning of an air strike.

But nothing happens and with a chance to decipher the pronunciation, you realize it was an announcement that "green vegetables are now on sale at the entrance of the village". This is obviously the most important part of the day for the elderly locals.

So get down to Linshuicun before it becomes yet another popular tourist destination in the area, overcrowded and spoiled. Remember to bring a camera to capture the best of its fantastic ancient architecture and don't miss the chance to taste fresh farmhouse meals.

For reference, a dish of free-range chicken costs 80 yuan and a night in a traditional courtyard belonging to the offspring of juren, with the opportunity to pick fruits and vegetables in private gardens, should be about 15 yuan per person.

(China Daily 09/20/2010)