The glitzy aura of Parnas can be a little much, Mike Peters discovers, but the kitchen's French fare offers some of the best bites in Nali Patio.

It's easy to get distracted at Parnas, and that's no accident. In the space that was formerly Saddle, which famously produced Mexican food and tequila hangovers as the lowbrow Party Central of Sanlitun's Nali Patio, Parnas has scraped away that old scene as efficiently as a swarm of locusts.

In its place is a grand edifice, where classical Greek pillars and Russian investors and French cuisine come together in a show of opulence that could make Donald Trump whimper.

The effect might seemed subdued in the pleasant low-light ambience if not for an immense globe-shaped chandelier glittering above us in the second-floor restaurant. "Did we miss Marie Antoinette's estate sale?" one of my companions murmurs.

Everything from the tableware to the bathroom fittings is tres elegant. On a stage set like that, you'd almost expect the menu to be a floss job, too. But the deep purse that's apparent behind the show here has been brilliantly employed in the kitchen.

Our first course, the seafood tian, was a carefully crafted column of fresh crab, scallops, shrimp and clams with mango flakes. In the playful plating, it's afloat in a pool of chilled gazpacho, and the soup's spicy tomato edge is a fine, savory complement for the seafood.

Such artful exuberance can feel like mere artifice, but most dishes are so fresh and delicious that they rise above the molecular-gastronomy froufrou that may sometimes inspire them.

The mains are generous enough at Parnas that nobody at our table went home hungry. Wagyu beef, with tangy onion jam and red-wine jus, begs for a quick snap photo before you dig in. Even prettier is the lamb, with its swipes of beetroot puree; creamy polenta and saffron endive complete another picture-perfect plate.

On another visit, we savored another winning combination: cured beef tenderloin with soya dressing, a poached quail egg, bearnaise espuma and candied bresaola.

The candlelit ambience makes this a nice destination for a romantic dinner for two. Other amenities you expect from a fine French restaurant are spot-on here: A respectable wine list and extremely polished service.

Naturally, your sweet tooth will be catered to with panache: Fans of French chocolate say there's none better, and the dark chocolate cake could make believers out of even jealous Belgians. The kitchen gives the dessert texture with sprinkles of caramelized nougat, and provides a swath of orange custard for furtive dipping. If you're not in the mood for chocolate, try the passion fruit chibouste with vanilla-orange coulis and dabs of basil gel for a sweet-and-sour finish.

For afters, drop down to the first-floor bar for a nightcap, or if the night is fine, head for the rooftop deck where champagne and caviar await. Whether you think one last burst of ooh-lah-lah is tedious, funny or simply your due, it's a grand way to finish the evening.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn.

(China Daily 04/19/2014 page16)