(That's Shanghai)
Updated: 2008-02-05 09:47

Cheung's blazing neon signage anticipates fiery flavors; in contrast, the wafting scent of flower pepper was the only stand-out feature of the intensely generic dining room.

We started with the renowned cold dish, fuqi feipian (spicy lung slices, RMB 28), served with a stomach-warming topping of coriander, pepper and peanuts. That dish nicely prepared us for a hearty, authentic Chongqing-style maoxiewang (spicy mixed meat claypot with blood curd and offal, RMB 38). Surprisingly, though, the house specialty, feiteng yupian (boiled fish with bean sprouts in hot chili oil, RMB 48) was disappointing in flavor and texture.

Ultimately, the clean but empty dining room served as a metaphor for the whole meal: passable but not compelling.

Cheung
Open: Daily 10am-10pm.
Location: 408 Shaanxi Bei Lu, by Beijing Xi Lu
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 140
Tel: 021-62563899