The theme of the evening was to concoct a dish made of half indigenous ingredients and the rest from more exotic produce found in their host countries. Prego's manager-chef, now in his late-30s, served up culinary excellence on a plate with his tuna tartare.

A classic dish made of raw fish and olive oil, these were two ingredients unquestionably Italian of origin. The twist, however, was so simple it was tantamount to a work of calligraphy.

Instead of a typical Parmesan cracker, Congera, who was one of the earliest members of the group joining in 2002, used Sichuan pepper for a crisp biscuit and a reduction of black Chinese vinegar which he brought with him to Milan. ("They wanted to prepare some for me here, but I wanted to use the original product"). Not only did the spicy biscuit and sauce balance the dish beautifully, it also eliminated the need for lemon on the tartare to give acidity for the fish.

"Professional chefs can be very flexible," said the Westin's media darling. "Any time, any moment, we can do something that make people say: 'Wow."'

Food journalists and trade professionals in attendance on Monday were certainly impressed by Congera's magnum opus and the presentations of the other four chefs. Of particular note was prestigious Roppongi Hill establishments Restorante Sadler and Ristorante L'Estasi's Executive Chef Andrea Tranchero's entry. The Italian used rice from his native Piedmont and molded it with some nuts and extra virgin olive oil. On top he served a slow-cooked quail's egg and added a dash of tobiko (flying fish roe) and a sprig of asparagus.

The end result was more than the sum of its parts and left guests with their mouths agape.

Guests left later that evening knowing that Italian cuisine was ready to shake off its safe and boring tag and stands at the precipice of a new wave.

Westin Bund Center
Address: 2/F, 88 He'nan Zhonglu
Tel: 021-63351888

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