Lederhosen, alpine horns, black forests, mountain chalets. Bavarian fetishes all, but ones yet to resonate with Beijing's fun loving middle classes. Fortunately for the Paulaner Brauhaus, beer and meat was never going to get lost in translation.

Indeed despite relatively prohibitive prices, the Brauhaus part of an international chain of micro-breweries come beer halls come restaurants sees a cosmopolitan cross section of Beijing professionals following the scent of wiener schnitzel. In summer they even open an additional area under canvas to allow even more boozy punters to clink steins.

The dark wood paneled Paulaner is not a place to come if you're feeling guilty about Spring Festival binges. Thick armed, healthy looking waitresses heft beers and plates of food both heavy and strong flavored, both in large quantities. Expect to pay upward of 100 yuan for a main course. Seasonal specials include a daily roast and a cheese fondue (189 yuan).

Of course it's the beer that makes the Paulaner really special. They have a brew master, straight from Munich, who oversees beer production (twice a week in winter, every day in summer) and the great copper colored vats where the mash is churned are the center piece of the whole place. The house light beer is particularly special (49 yuan for half a liter).

The success could be down to the fact that it's one of the few places in Beijing specifically geared to the over 30s letting their hair down. Or it could be the first indication that Beijing is about to embrace Bavarian culture to her red qipao covered bosom. Beijingers in leather shorts and alpine caps fusing local Opera with an oompah loompah brass section? You heard it here first.

Paulaner Brauhaus
Location: Inside the Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District.
Tel: 010-64653388 ext 5732