Few would disagree that Beijing and Shanghai, both cities of prominence in China, are as similar as chalk and cheese: one is steeped in cultural appeal, while the other is an economic powerhouse.

So it comes as a surprise that the recently opened Ping'an branch of Xiaonanguo, a chain restaurant from Shanghai, somehow manages to combine the opposing forces.

Located on the fourth floor of the City Mall in Chaoyang district, the styling is a solid base of divisive art deco space - popular in Shanghai in the 1930s - and laced with antique, lacquered furniture and porcelain goods from the north.

Alan Chan, the restaurant's chief designer, said as a fan of the two major cities, it was his plan to integrate their temperaments.

By making all design elements dark brown and gold, he believes he finally accomplished "mission impossible".

One highlight of the restaurant the Hong Kong designer is most proud of is a stained glass window, very similar in style to skyscrapers alongside the Huangpu River in Shanghai.

"I noticed these windows faced west, because the sunshine was strongest in the afternoon," Chan said. "I wanted to try something new and provide a good view."

The effect is most striking from the City Mall's outside, in the early evening when lamps shining brightly inside light up a rainbow of colors.

"I started going to Shanghai in the 1970s. Also, when I'm at home in Hong Kong, I go to a Shanghai restaurant at least once a week," he said.

Though Chan has a strong passion for Shanghai, he displays it in a discrete way. A small and subtle touch that might be noticed around the restaurant are the letters "SX", representing the brand name, Shanghai Xiaonanguo.

"I want to make it as delicate as 'LV'," he said.

Fashion is as important as food in the City Mall, which by the end of October was home to luxury brands Gucci, Burberry and Salvatore Ferragamo.

The same is not true for the restaurant though, with the focus placed firmly on the food.

"The most important thing in a Shanghai dish is to have just the right amount of sweetness," Chan said. "Not too much, nor too little."

"The 'Deep-fried River Baby Fish' is the best I've ever tasted."

Zhou Bin, vice-president of the Xiaonanguo Group, said Xiaonanguo purchases all its ingredients from the same location, to ensure each restaurant is of equal quality.

Zhou recommends "Sauteed Fresh River Shrimp".

"Fresh, elastic and melts in the month. It is the most popular dish in the restaurant," he said, adding that the shrimps are supplied from a river in Jiangsu province that is extremely clean.

"I cannot reveal exactly which lake they come from though," Zhou said. "This is our secret."