Beijing bars usually fall into one of two categories: good quality and pricey or low quality and cheap.

El Nido, an unassuming bar in Fangjia Hutong, is one of the few that manages to be both cheap and high quality.

As a result, it has begun to gain a reputation among writers and other local foreign residents and it is easy to see why.

Put simply, El Nido has the best selection of spirits and beers of any bar in Beijing at reasonable prices.

Owner Xiao Shuai, from Hebei province, opened the bar in March this year and has since amassed a truly staggering collection of alcohol products.

"I have been able to do this by talking to my foreign customers and understanding what they want," he said.

"This has allowed me to buy a good selection of beers as well as to begin selling a range of absinthe. I can sell items at low prices because I am an agent who deals directly with manufacturers."

This certainly pays off, as most foreign beers like Kwak from Belgium, Rogue Dead Guy from the US and Greene King IPA from the UK are around 20 to 30 percent cheaper than in most Sanlitun bars.

Harbin beer for 10 yuan per bottle or Pastis for a similar price per glass are also far better quality than the run-of-the-mill Tsingtao or fake G&T that drinkers can usually get for the same cost.

However, it is the absinthe that is the biggest draw, with high-quality absinthes served in the traditional way, costing between 30 and 50 yuan. No other bar in Beijing has such a selection and none can charge so little for it.

Despite the bar being fairly ramshackle with only a small space for seating and just a couple of staff members, it has even more surprises.

There are also about 10 different homemade blends of alcohol, from spicy chili brandy to the Brazilian favorite, a caipirinha shot mix.

Amazingly, there is also a small snack menu offering top-quality olives, artichoke tapenade bruschetta, and salami and Parma ham sandwiches, all for between 10 and 25 yuan.

But El Nido has weak points too. Its difficulties are that it is located in a residential area and so there are potential conflicts with the neighbors, should things get loud past 11 pm. Also, there is little in the way of indoor seating.

Xiao Shuai said these problems will all be solved soon enough and he also wants to expand into another bar and perhaps a Western-style caf in the future.

For now though, Xiao Shuai's immediate priority is to keep El Nido running hot through the chilly winter - this should be easy since it has the alcohol quality of a top hotel bar without any of the drawbacks.

For China Daily

(China Daily 10/28/2010)