Green rice balls are available all year round, but their demand spikes a few weeks ahead of the annual Qingming Festival. photo by gao erqiang / china daily

“I apologize if there isn’t anyone who can help answer your questions. The chefs here are paid according to the number of rice balls they make,” said Liu Chongliang, general manager of the 71-year-old restaurant and snack shop, Wang JiaSha.

The traditional snack is an important element in the annual Qingming Festival (Tomb-sweeping Festival) when people visit the graves of their ancestors and family members. The tradition of eating green rice balls on this occasion dates back to thousands of years ago in southern China when people deemed it as a form of tribute to their ancestors. The grave would be tidied before the rice balls are presented together with some dishes as well as wine and fruit.

Founded in 1945 by Yao Zichu, a former advertising executive, Wang JiaSha started as an eatery offering typical Shanghai snacks like xiao long bao (dumplings), shrimp-filled wontons and steamed sticky rice topped with “eight treasures” that comprises different types of dried plums and nuts.

It was not until the 1990’s that Wang JiaSha added the green rice ball to its menu that had already spanned 300 types of snacks and pastries. Named after a small neighborhood in the same area it was in, Wang JiaSha today has seven outlets in Shanghai and five in Hong Kong.