Go with the Flo

Baked snails, a favorite and one of Flo's signature dishes. Provided to China Daily

Flo Beijing has been in operation for 12 years and recently moved to its new home. Ye Jun checks out the spanking new venue.

Moving out of a comfort zone is sometimes tough. But for Flo Beijing, it was a blessing in disguise.

"The old location was charming, but a lot of things were breaking down. The present location is strategically better for us," says Robert Schmitz, the American head of Groupe Flo Asia.

"Here is our own building. There is no KTV or massage next door. We have our own parking lots, and there is good visibility from the road."

Flo was "forced" out of the old location at Rainbow Plaza along the Third Ring Road, which was to be demolished.

The new Flo, more easily accessible on Xiaoyun Road near the US embassy, has a seating capacity of 200 people. It is a comfortable hangout with a vintage "French feel" to it. For some familiarity, the management has moved pictures of the old brasserie to the new location.

There is an area in the restaurant with a good view of the open kitchen, to make the dining experience even more special.

Very soon, a terrace in front of the restaurant, almost the same size as the indoor area, will begin operation. The terrace is encircled with trees, which is sure to find favor among customers during the hot summer.

Like the old venue, the restaurant retains its impressive seafood bar serving tempting fresh lobster, king crab, oysters and such. There is also a big bakery, a comfortable bar area and three private rooms.

Flo's signature dishes - oysters, snails and foie gras - remain of high quality. A helping of six freshly shucked oysters is served on a plate piled with ice. The oysters imported from France taste luscious, with just a slight briney taste to testify to their freshness.

The snails tasted lighter than at the old Flo version, probably a change catering to Chinese palate. The foie gras looks solid but when you cut through it, the taste is clean, and it melts in the mouth.

Robert Schmitz says they sell about 200 kilograms of foie gras, 4,000 oysters, and 1,000 helpings of snails in a month.

"I think we sell the most oysters in town, and more snails than any brasserie in France," he says.

It's been 12 years since Flo was established in Beijing, and it opened its Tianjin branch last year.

Over the years, Schmitz notices some differences in Beijing's dining scene. The chefs remain the same, but customers have changed a little.

"More customers are eating oysters and steaks," he says.

"Flo, which was a joint venture with Jianguo Hotel, used to have 70-80 percent expat customers," he says. "But now 70-80 percent are Chinese."

The Chinese customers appear to be people who are widely traveled, and appreciate Western cuisine. "They have stronger spending power, and they are willing to try new things," he says.

When Schmitz joined Flo in 2004, he found the cuisine served to be a bit old-fashioned. Things changed after executive chef Bertrand Combe joined in 2008.

Chef Combe describes his cuisine as "beautiful, pleasant and classy". "It is not so much fusion," he adds. Presentation is simple, good-looking, and the taste is "how it should be", emphasizing the original taste.

"Flo is forever a brasserie, and we want to remain a brasserie luxe, where customers are from all walks of life. They can come in, have a glass of wine, or try some luxurious seafood," he says.

Other than the seafood, Flo's suckling pig is flawless, with very crispy skin and flavorful tender meat.

Desserts are to die for, especially the creme brulee, and a flambe crepe made with Grand Marnier.

The restaurant will be officially launched on June 21, when Flo will be jointly organizing a music festival with the French embassy, in honor of the French Music Festival which has been held on June 21 for years.

They have invited Chinese and French artists, including an opera artist who worked with Pavarotti, to stage a live performance.

Schmitz says they are proud to be in business in Beijing for the last 12 years. He says business at the new Flo is better than the old one, and sometimes he feels it has got a buzz to it. "It's like the customers are staging a performance for us," he says. "It's a kind of reward for us."

Contact the writer at yejun@chinadaily.com.cn.