A simply styled restaurant tucked into one corner of busy Biyun Road, Pudong, the Pistolera Mexican Grill & Cantina has just celebrated its fourth year in Shanghai. Sheltered outdoor seating beckons as the days get hotter, but the big draw is not the summer breeze but the food.

Preparation of food in Mexico is often referred to as mestizaje, or "mixing", in a land of many cultures and culinary traditions.

Corn, a staple for thousands of years, finds its way into nearly all foods, along with beans and peppers. Building on that base, myriad flavors come from avocados, coconuts, pineapples and other fruits as well as spices and herbs like cinnamon, clove, anise, cilantro, thyme and the pungently distinctive epazote.

Our meal started with a bowl of fresh chips served with a spicy and tangy pico de gallo. "Seven seas" seafood soup is awash with shrimp, squid, fish, mussels and clams cooked and served in spicy broth with pepper and tomato.

Also interesting: The homestyle beef-and-vegetable stew known as cocido, and the tortilla soup, in which shredded chicken and fried tortilla strips are served in thick chicken broth along with tomatoes and chipotle chili. Pistolera has a way with chilies - signature chili dishes start from a simple chili bowl to a chili Sonora hot dog to a chili-bathed burrito to casual chili nachos.

Appetizers include quesadillias in many forms, from old-fashioned fried ones to some hipsters. The shrimp variety with its chipotle chili cream has a mild hot and spicy taste, but the added splash of tequila may not appeal to everyone. My personal favorite has been the beef chili quesadilla - the simplest and the tastiest.

Mexican food was one of our favorites during our days in the United States, and we as a family order a lot of food so that we can all share and taste. So when we arrived in Shanghai and learned about Pistolera, we followed the same tradition.

The "diablo" pork burrito is my personal favorite as it comes with spicy marinated "al pastor" grilled pork. It's named for the devil himself, but it's not really super-spicy. A side of Mexican rice and refried beans can be added, but the burrito itself is quite large and filling.

In fact, tasting too many items here can be a challenge, because each portion is quite enormous and due to the cheese content in a few, the food is on the heavier side. So go with a very large appetite.

We did, ordering the famous fish tacos and enchiladas, too. Both the shrimp and grilled tilapia tacos tasted heavenly, enhanced by the restaurant's secret batter recipe. There's a Baja style that is topped with chipotle and mustard coleslaw, while the grilled tilapia version comes with pico de gallo and guacamole.

Among the popular enchilada options, the hot favorite is a trio covered in cheese and green tomatillo sauce. Filling options include chicken, beef, shrimp and cheese.

Pistolera's margarita on the rocks is quite sensational, and the dessert list harbors other indulgences. We went for three quite shamelessly: "Chocoflan", a combination of chocolate cake and creme caramel (flan); churros, fried dough sticks coated with sugar and cinnamon and served with three dipping sauces; and the bunuelos - thin deep-fried tortillas, soaked in sugar syrup and served with a choice of ice cream.

IF YOU GO

Pistolera's

855 Biyun Lu (Road) (near Lan'an Road), Pudong New Area, Shanghai.

021-5030-4228.

Approximate cost per person: 150 yuan ($24).

Recommended Dishes: Beef Chili Quesadilla, Diablo Pork Burrito, Enchiladas with Green Tomatillo Sauce and Bunuelo with Vanilla Ice Cream.

sundayed@chinadaily.com.cn

Chips are served as a starter with a spicy and tangy pico de gallo. Photos by Bidisha Bagchi / For China Daily

Chocoflan is a combination of chocolate cake and creme caramel.

(China Daily 06/08/2014 page8)