Culture

'Uncle Bean' brews up a reputation for good java

By Meng Jing (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-06-07 08:00

Zhao Hui says his biggest challenge is people's lack of understanding about coffee in China. ZOU HONG / CHINA DAILY

Back in the early 1990s, Zhao Hui was a person who drank instant coffee and believed coffee beans were almost the same as soybeans.

But now, the 40-year-old, known to friends as "Uncle Bean", is the owner of the first and only caf in Beijing where coffee lovers not only can procure high-quality green coffee beans, but also get them freshly roasted as they wait.

At first appearance, Zhao's Horst Cafe, opened in late March in the Fengtai district, is little different from other coffee shops in Beijing. Most have coffee machines, tables, sofas and relatively dim lighting to help patrons soak in a relaxing atmosphere.

However, once you step into the inner section of Horst Cafe, you will find bags of coffee beans, including Yirgacheffe, Sumatra Mandheling and Colombian special, that latter of which is limited in production to 3,000 bags per year.

"My cafe has access to 120 bags of it per year," Zhao said, adding his shop offers 11 top coffee beans from nine countries.

He only learned about coffee when he became a coffee importer in 2002. He has traveled to major coffee-producing countries such as Brazil, Colombia and Kenya, building strong connections with the coffee growers there.

He also acted as a translator when his clients are trained on coffee knowledge. His work experience has percolated to the point that he is considered a coffee guru of sorts.

His biggest challenge is the lack of understanding about coffee by Chinese consumers.

"People seldom drink real coffee in this country," Zhao said. "Most drink instant coffee or put too much sugar and milk in it.

"No one knows the taste of real coffee" he said, adding that instant coffee is just a sweet beverage.

Zhao, who prefers dark-roasted Yirgacheffe, said most people mistakenly believe that coffee has a bitter taste.

"But it shouldn't," he said. "Different coffees have different tastes."

His caf offers a great chance for customers to sip various coffees, most of which are seldom be found in the mainstream markets.

One secret to his brewing success lies in his Germany-made Probat coffee roaster. He said 80 percent of a cup of coffee's perfection depends on the quality of the beans.

Green beans have no smell, but roasting helps decode and release the secrets of each coffee bean variety.

Time and oxidation are the enemies of good coffee, so most of the coffee at Horst Caf is sold within four days after roasting.

As a member of the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE), Zhao said his caf meets European standards for good coffee.

In locating the shop he eschewed the typical expat havens such as the Central Business District in favor of reaching more Beijingers at a remote spot off the south Third Ring Road.

"Landlords in the CBD are not tolerant of my Probat because its operation requires gas and fire," he said.

Though he has invested 2 million yuan in the place, it has yet to turn a profit because of the location. Still, he is banking on a growing reputation. Zhao firmly believes that coffee culture is exactly what Beijingers crave.

"People in Beijing are busy working for money, for apartments and for cars. They don't even have time to drink a decent cup of coffee," he said.

"It is high time for them to slow down, escape the high pressure and speedy living pace," he said. "Even if it means sparing only 10 minutes to make a freshly roasted cup of coffee."