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Qipao maker revamps a classic style

By Shen Jingting (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-03-16 09:40

ZOU HONG / CHINA DAILY

Li Kan, a renowned tailor of qipao, measures the classic dress' changes over the years.

With over 30 years' experience at the venerable Beijing store, Hongdu Clothes, Li Kan, 54, is a well-known qipao (traditional Chinese dress) maker. She has served many celebrities over the years including Lien Fang-yu, wife of Kuomintang Honorary Chairman Lien Chan. She talked with METRO about the changes that have shaped today's qipao style, and her dream to make more luxury qipao for the capital's elite.

METRO: When did you start making qipao?

A: After the "cultural revolution"(1966-1976)), there was a time when the making of traditional qipao was not allowed. But after 1982, qipao were gradually accepted again by Chinese society, I followed my mentor to learn how to make them.

METRO: In the 1980s, what kinds of people were wearing qipao?

A: At that time, laobaixing, or common people, had no access to buying a qipao, only embassy staff could. When they went abroad, they might need to wear a Chinese dress, such as qipao. Then they came to us, providing us with an official certificate, and we tailored and made qipao for them.

METRO: Who buys and wears qipao now?

A: Qipao aren't suitable for every occasion. Our target clients are celebrities, ambassadors' wives, high level official's wives, rich women and women with a certain social status. They are mainly over 40.

But more and more young people are wearing qipao now. For example, newlyweds like to wear a qipao at their wedding ceremonies, and overseas Chinese students like to have at least one qipao in their suitcases, for situations such as a banquet, or other function.

METRO: Is there any difference between a qipao made in 1980s and qipao made now?

A: Qipao in the 1980s were more conservative, as women didn't want to show their body curves. Gradually, Western culture has influenced qipao design, and now customers are more interested in qipao that show-off their figures.

To be more precise, qipao were quite loose in the early days. Afterwards tailors designed qipao with a slim waist and a vase-like shape below the waist, which showed women's bodies quite well.

ZOU HONG / CHINA DAILY

Li counts many celebrities among her clients.

METRO: Could you describe qipao's style change in details?

A: Yes. Let me describe the changes in four elements: length, side cut, sleeves and buttons.

At first, qipao were as long as trousers, down to the shoes, but the length became shorter afterwards, to the ankles, or to knees. Now we can even see some fashion qipao boasting a length as short as miniskirts.

In 1980s, for walking convenience, qipao usually had two side cuts to the wearer's knees, but now, we see the cuts stretching upward, from the knees to a point much nearer the top of the thigh.

When it comes to sleeves, in the1980s, qipao sleeves covered almost the whole of the arms. Those kinds of qipao are now outdated. Sleeves are much shorter now, and some qipao have no sleeves.

As for buttons, previously, we only saw butterfly buttons, and some straight buttons. Nowadays a variety of button shapes are used, including the gourd-like calabash, those shaped like the Chinese instrument the pipa, and others such as the phoenix and five star.

To sum up, qipao today have a wider variety of color and styles, and have evolved into a more modern look.

METRO: How much money do you charge for a qipao?

A: It depends on the material. If you choose Zhijingduan, the price may be about 3,000 yuan, but if you choose better fiber, such as silk or Sirong, one qipao may cost 5,000 yuan to 6,000 yuan.

METRO: Do you enjoy making qipao?

A: Absolutely, I do. Sometimes I see a woman with a good figure and I think it's a pity if she doesn't wear qipao, because only qipao can perfectly show her curves not in a vulgar way, but in an elegant way. Qipao adds a traditional Chinese flavor to a woman's character.

METRO: What's your dream?

A: I would love to make some luxury qipao in the future, adding gold, jewelry and jade into the dress, which may be favored by Beijing's elite.