Approaching the North Gate of The Workers Stadium in Beijing there was a bright flash of lightening followed by a clap of thunder, a dramatic effect appropriate to the occasion. This evening arch rivals Beijing Guoan and Tianjin TEDA meet in a match known as the Jing-Jin derby. While the fixture between the two China Super-league teams occurs every year, this was the first where away supporters were present following riots 8 years ago.

Football is among the most popular and historical sports in China. Attendance rates averaged 22,000 last season, only 200 less than Italy or France. It played in the first international game in Asia against the Philippines in 1913 and both clubs in today’s clash can trace their origins back to the North China Team founded in 1910. Despite their common heritage, like many major clubs in close proximity, there is intense enmity between them and passions run high.

Enemy at the gate

The TEDA supporters assemble outside the gate. As the rain starts and disposable rain coats are pulled over the blue and white, it could have been a fixture in England. Under a dripping umbrella, Mr. Wang, a self described super-fan, tells me, 'neither team can afford to lose, both TEDA and Guoan need the points.' Other supporters agree, it is a must win game, but none dare express a prediction that TEDA wil triumph. As Mr.Wang remarks, ‘TEDA hasn't won at the Workers Stadium for 15 years.'

The pessimism is a contrast to most supporters who despite such statistics tend to have an unrealistic belief in their team's victory. A possible reaction to the general disappointment that Chinese football has provided over the years. The national team has struggled; qualifying for the world cup once in its history, match fixing and corruption undermining credibility in the results. It’s not surprising that while football is hugely popular, it’s foreign teams and leagues that have been largely followed.

A show of strength

As we enter into the stadium, there is a strong and visible presence of guards, police and soldiers. The away enclosure, is tightly packed with 700 fans that have travelled to see the match, heavily outnumbered by the surrounding green Guoan supporters. The clouds part as everyone stands for the national anthem, a brief moment of unity in the sun. When it finishes, the TEDA end is so crowded that some remain standing, a contrast to other parts of the stadium which, despite an attendance of nearly 24,000, has patches empty.

It's typical Chinese planning. Like the huge new developments that are eerily empty at completion, but soon fill, China's promotion of the sport expects to lead to over-capacity crowds. It has the numbers of people, the interest in the game, and the political will that has created a spending boom as money pours into the sport. Headline making investments in European teams buy expertise to develop homegrown talent for the future and attract top foreign players and managers, through ludicrous salaries, to increase the standard of teams in the present.

Both teams on the pitch tonight are fielding 3 foreign players - the maximum number allowed. While not the household names like those recently rumored to be coming, or those that have joined other teams, their contribution to the game is obvious from the opening whistle. Mr. Wang tells me, 'their value isn't just the quality they add to the game, they also provide experience to other players.

Achieving the goal

The TEDA supporters deliver as much noise as they can to encourage their team who start brightly. TEDA have more possession, some enthusiastic midfield tackling and the best scoring chances. Sadly, none of the effort produces a goal.

Why the performance of Chinese teams have been so poor is blamed on a number of issues. Most credibly is the lack of support provided by schools and parents who emphasise studying. There are also complaints about lack of facilities. Certainly, there are few grassy parks where you see football being played in contrast to England, where kids kicking a ball around is the norm.

The problems are being addressed with football being made a compulsory part of the national curriculum, the opening of 20,000 football-themed academies and study-abroad programs, all with the aim of producing more than 100,000 homegrown players.

Despite TEDA having most of the early chances, Beijing take the lead at 20 minutes with an easy headed goal from their Turkish striker. Other drama is provided by some feeble fouls and dreadful dives, one of which leads to a second yellow and TEDA being reduced to 10 by half time. The supporters complain bitterly about the referee's decision. Abuse of the officials is normal when decisions go against a team, but it has added poignancy when set against a history of "black whistles" - a reference to corrupt referees.

A game of two halves

The second half produces little of the opening excitement. TEDA manage to break through Guoan's defense a few times, but have pitiful finishing. It was up to Beijing's Brazillian player to score their second, after which TEDA and their supporters looked increasingly tired and hopeless. At this point, in England, the away team would be leaving early for the journey home. Cruelly, they are locked in the stadium until after the celebrating Beijingers have gone.

It is a disappointing result, but an improved performance compared with a few years ago. Mr Wang agrees, joking that the standard at club level was improving steadily, but the national team performance was still poor because we don't use foreign players. The clubs are benefiting from the investment in foreign talent, the richest competing at the highest levels in Asia. It's hoped the strategy will lead to national team success. Academies and foreign player's improved Japanese teams and the country went on to host the world cup, an ambition China wants to copy and win.

A TEDA supporter showed disappointment for the result.

Club and country

Success on the international sporting stage has a long association with promoting national pride. A nation's triumph on the field validating the achievements and standing of the state, something China has already managed in both the Olympic Games and Women’s football. The national women's team has only failed to qualify once in the last 7 World Cups, were runners up in 1999 and consistently make the quarter finals.

Football is popular among women throughout Asia and there is a high percentage present in the supporter's compound more than you'd expect in England. Former model, Ms. Zhao, a TEDA fan for 20 years now helps the supporters club says ‘Young Chinese girls often go to matches, but stop once they have families. 'Notably, there were no children in the supporter's enclosure, it's not the family occasion promoted by the English FA - more likely the kids are at home studying.

The importance of education in Chinese culture is unlikely to change making academies the best bet for inculcating sufficient numbers of youngsters to feed the national team. Football is a global business and clubs wanting to win silverwear regularly, need the best players. Limiting a team to 3 foreigners might hinder their success. But, as England has found, allowing a free market reduces the top places available for domestic players, damaging the national squad. As TEDA supporters, corralled by the army, drift peacefully away, maybe they are reflecting on the dilemma facing all fans; the loyalty between club and country.