It doesn't really matter where you go in Hangzhou; it's easy to savor the city's natural beauty, cultural ambience or inexpensive delicacies. Getting around the always-crowded city streets is, however, another issue.

The best way to get around in Hangzhou is by bicycle, as I did on a cool, crisp November weekend. It's cheap and convenient, and the most satisfying part is the smug feeling you get while weaving through the heavy traffic while other commuters are twiddling their fingers waiting in their cars or buses.

Thanks to the government's unswerving support for the public bicycle system since 2008, there are now 50,000 bicycles available at 2,000 kiosks around the city.

To enjoy the privilege of a cheap bike tour, you need to get a Z card first at the city's public transportation center on Longxiang Road. Be sure to have your ID card or passport and 300-yuan ($47) cash (200 yuan for deposit, and 100 yuan for deduction for use of bicycle), then ask for a paper form to apply for the card from one of the tiny service windows on a corner of the center and fill it out.

The service windows are, in most cases, filled with tour guides holding a pile of ID cards from their group to apply for the bicycles, and individual tourists repeat questions that barely get a response from the apathetic and slow-working staff. There is no formal line to join, so just be patient and aggressive.

Once you get the small green card that gives you access to all of the bright red bicycles in the city, everything becomes much easier.

There are plenty of bicycles parked in rows outside the transportation center. Be sure to choose one with a suitably adjusted seat height, usually that comes to height of your waist. Next, swipe your card in the meter and the lock on the bike will release automatically.

The procedure is same if you start from other kiosks in the city. But the return process is a bit trickier. After getting the bike locked with the card, be sure to check on the machine outside every kiosk to see if the bike is officially returned. And don't count on the "hotline" (0571-8533-1122) for help - it's constantly busy.

The bicycle rental is free for the first hour, and costs two yuan ($0.30) for the second hour, and three yuan for the third hour and every hour after. You can return them at any kiosk any time and get another bicycle one minute later. Unless you're going a long distance, you won't need to pay for the bicycle.

Some of the kiosks also offer free maps and travel guides. They also sell bottles of water. And the staff inside can help with the direction, but not all speak English.

Although many areas around the West Lake are pedestrian only, the ideal route for cyclists begins from the Bai Causeway to the Su Causeway. These two historic causeways divide the lake into three parts, and generally are considered as the finest areas to experience the West Lake.

Riding along the kilometer-long embankment with plum trees and weeping willows on both sides, you will be fascinated by the sweeping view of the serene lake, the cool breeze blowing past your face, and will feel like a free bird when the bicycle runs down the slope of several arched stone bridges.

When you reach the end of the Su Causeway, take a slow ride along the shady Nanshan Road, where there are many boutique stores, jazz bars, and fine restaurants in the city. Take your time to make as many stops as you like to dine or shop. There is no need to worry about your bike being stolen because no one can resell it.

Finally turn around to the century-old Hefang Street. Return your bike and card to the kiosk, but be aware that there are only a few kiosks available for the card-return service.

Here are a few more tips for a rookie cyclist: Most drivers don't know much about road courtesy, so be careful while riding on the street, as other cyclists will ride on the wrong side of the street, and pedestrians will stand in the middle of the road waiting for taxis.

The bikes for rent are generally in poor condition. You will be lucky if your bicycle has a bell. While for the less fortunate ones, chances are that your bike will either have a broken brake, a rusty drive chain or both.

But don't let all the cars, buses, other bicycles and pedestrians dissuade you - traveling by bike along the edge of the West Lake is the best way to see it.

China Daily

(China Daily 01/02/2012 page10)