Delicacies
Senses Restarant - Special 2011 Lumpfish Menu Promotion
By Rueben Marley (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2011-01-19 16:20
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With a visit to Senses Restaurant at the Four Points Sheraton Hotel always promising an experience to remember, we were very glad to have the chance to see what the culinary master at this venue had in store for us on this visit. We didn't really know what the buzz was about, but our hosts assured us that it would not only be something totally new to Hangzhou's food scene - but maybe something totally new for all of us, as well! The hotel's 30-year anniversary only added to the fun, as we entered the dining room, and took our seats around a very lavish circle table in the spacious VIP room.
Once we were all settled in, our hosts told us that tonight's meal would be featuring a very special fish, the Lumpfish. Now for those of you who haven't seen the Lumpfish up close, it's hard to say whether this species could be considered charming and cute, or downright ugly. It's a rather shapeless fish, with shiny, smooth, and mottled gray skin. It also has a rather unique “face,” if you could say that a fish has a face at all. While we were debating the qualities of the Lumpfish in terms of its photogenic qualities, the Chef walked in, and said hello. Chef Li Shui Kun, the Sheraton's Cantonese Chef, was going to give us a Lumpfish experience we would not soon forget. He explained that the fish is imported from the cold Icelandic waters, and its price makes it a highly rare treat in China, since only major hotels and restaurants in the largest international cities are able to justify offering the tasty fish on their menus. “In other words,” the Chef commented, “it's a very unique thing to present the people of Hangzhou, and it is sure to make a real impact on food lovers from around the world.”
Needless to say, we were very interested in seeing what could be done with this fish. A dish arrived, and all of us leaned in to examine it closely. To our surprise, it really just looked like a dish of Sichuan-style fish in spicy broth, but the Chef smiled and said we should try it before drawing any conclusions. It tasted superb, and the tender flesh was different than the usual variety of fish found in this particular dish; but a very good fit with the flower peppers and mildly spicy twang. While the classical preparation of this dish is known for being fiery and intensely spiced, the Chef scales it down a tad to account for taste buds that are not immune to the effects of Sichuan peppers. He noted, however, the dish can certainly be made as hot as anyone dares to eat it.
Next came a plate with seared Lumpfish fillets, which was very simply presented, and served with a cluster of fresh frisee, and a special dressing. Again, the tender cuts of Lumpfish surprised us with their excellent texture, and by the fact that the dish was salted just enough to offset the oiliness of the fish, without overpowering. It's important to note that loads of DHA and Omega-3 fatty acids are found in this fish, making it a great choice for the health-conscious.
We s a third plate appear, and this time it was braised Lumpfish with savory crumbles of yellow beans on top. This is a specialty dish of Chef Li's design, and the secret to his beans is a carefully guarded one. He hinted that there were some very interesting ingredients found in the mix, and all of them work in perfect balance to make the Lumpfish a dish that leaves a great impression.
Finally, the fourth dish arrived. With this one, we were a little hesitant to eat it right away, since the pile of skins from the Lumpfish seemed to be a bit on the slimy and strange side... but the Chef assured us it would be a surprise, and we heaped portions on our plates as instructed. It was a surprise, indeed. Lovers of Japanese foods like sashimi will be highly pleased to discover a slippery (and not slimy at all!) and tender skin, with just the right amount of vinaigrette tossed into it, to provide a real contrast to the other dishes of the evening.
One word of advice, after we sampled the goods at the Four Points Sheraton Hotel in Hangzhou: you really should make the effort to hurry and try this meal for yourself, because after March 2011, the Lumpfish will no longer be making his way to Hangzhou's shores!
Special thanks to Chef Li Shui Kun, Swing Shen, Dew Zhang, and Chris Lin. Photo courtesy of Oakwood Residence Hangzhou. Full version of featured seasonal menu and prices listed below.
Pan-fried Lumpfish 150Yuan
Braised Lumpfish 150
Steamed Lumpfish with Soyabean Sauce 150
Steamed Lumpfish 150
Steamed Lumpfish with Chili 150
Tossed Lumpfish Skin in Vinaigrette Dressing 138
Wok-fried Lumpfish with XO Sauce 138
Lumpfish with Bean Curd in Clay Pot 88
Sliced Lumpfish in Hot Oil with Chili 158
Stir-fried Sea Cucumber with Kale 188
(all prices subject to a 15% service charge)
Location
No.868 Dongxin Dadao, Hangzhou //品轩中餐厅，杭州滨江区东信大道868号,福朋喜来登酒店内 Tel:0571-28878888
Service quality:
very good
Food quality:
very good
Price per head (RMB):
100-200
Environment:
very good
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