Timeless French fashion chic sweeps down the Paris runway

(Agencies)
Updated: 2008-10-14 17:20

Not even a global credit crisis can compromise the enduring value of French chic. That was the message from Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld, the reigning godfather of Paris fashion. With a stunning, life-size reproduction of the original Chanel Rue Cambon boutique behind the runway, and Madness' "Our House" on the soundtrack, Lagerfeld played up the brand's heritage for all it was worth, presenting one of the most strikingly beautiful collections of this challenging season.

Lagerfeld drew on all the weapons in his arsenal of classic Chanel design signatures. The tweed suit was updated in a pink geometric weave with an angled short-sleeve jacket, while a coat covered in a grid of white sequins cued into spring's graphic trend. The basic black shift was given new life with billowing white sleeves and a tie at the neck. Knitwear went sexy in the form of a ribbed black, off-the-shoulder sweater dress. The spectator shoe was redone in clear plastic, and the Rue Cambon shopping bag in leather.

All the romance of Paris was on the Chanel runway, the bohemians of Montparnasse captured in the metallic Lurex camellia-print peasant dress, the white poet's blouse with fan-pleated sleeves, belted with a grosgrain ribbon over a floor-sweeping black skirt and the quilted Chanel guitar case. The showgirls of Montmartre were there in the marabou feather hats and heels, and you could feel the bons vivants of the Grands Boulevards in empire-line tulle gowns strung with pearls.

Timeless French chic was a clear statement in a fashion season as confused as the world economic scene around it, where nobody could agree on whether women are more likely to buy special pieces or classics, pretty clothes or basics in a recession. If there's a take-away, it's that spring is looking grown-up and pared down, with graphic elements and tribal and fringe accessories. Jackets, jumpsuits and soft pants -- pajama, balloon and dhoti styles-are all key pieces. And rather than going in radical new directions, most designers played it safe, sticking with what they do best.