Small on fare, big on flavor

Brevity is the soul of the delicious menu at this Yunnan restaurant. Belle Taylor samples the sumptuous options.

Walking into Beijing's Gulou area's newest Yunnan restaurant, Hani Gejiu, is like falling through the rabbit hole and finding yourself quite glad you did so. To reach the restaurant, you must navigate one of Beijing's less-picturesque hutong, tucked away in a nondescript corner of the drum and bell towers.

If you are visiting in winter, you must battle the icy winds that whip through the darkened alleyways, which make walking through the door of Hani Gejiu such a lovely surprise. The decor is warm and inviting, the wooden tables and colorful woven textiles are rustic but elegant, the space is well lit and cosy, and the wait staff greets you with enthusiasm.

It was a Tuesday night and the place was empty except for a family enjoying hotpot in the corner - a new addition to the menu. But the waitress on deck was attentive and friendly, seating us while asking if we would like hot or cold water for the table and topping up our glasses with a teapot throughout the meal.

Hani Gejiu is not your typical Yunnan restaurant with an encyclopedic menu of dishes. Instead a two-page menu is divided into three sections: cold dishes, side dishes (which are basically mains), and noodles and rice. There is also an option of the Chef's Special, a selection of the menu chosen by the kitchen. Having taken this option on an earlier visit, we know it is the best way to try the highlights of the menu, especially if you are new to Yunnan food and are unsure of what to order, or if you are with a group.

First up were the fried potato balls, which are about as good as they sound - sinfully delicious. The texture is spot-on with a lightly crispy outer layer giving way to fluffy potato on the inside. They come with a vinegar sauce with chopped coriander, chili and garlic, which has a perfectly bitter tang and a nice hit of chili.

IF YOU GO

Hani Gejiu
48 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng district, Beijing. 010-6401-3318. Average cost per head: 100-200 yuan ($16-32).

Recommended: Fried Potato Balls, Hani-Style Roast Fish, Fried Goat Cheese with Yunnan Ham and Peppers.