Lily Cole is Lacroix's living doll

The 18-year-old emerged looking like an exquisite porcelain doll, perhaps a Russian doll judging by the heavy embroidery and elaborate pearl-trimmed headdress.

The outfit was so intricate that Lacroix himself had to appear on the catwalk to make last-minute adjustments.

But it was his evening wear which really excelled.

The Lacroix label is not often seen on the red carpet, possibly because such bright colours are a little daunting for your average celebrity.

His aesthetic also tends towards the florid and his silhouette can be voluminous, which can be offputting in a culture where thin and understated is so prized.

But what a pity that he is not worn more, for his gowns are among the most beautiful in Paris.

Particularly striking was a neon yellow chiffon column dress with a shawl collar and beautifully draped skirts. If any actress was brave enough come Oscar night, they'd be sure to stand out.