However, as many people can tell you - bigger does not necessarily mean better!

For the independent traveller on a budget, CITS throws up endless annoyance and frustration. Staff are often unhelpful and rude while the information they give (if they give it) is rarely accurate and almost certainly more expensive.

In a country that is desperately trying to promote tourism, CITS, many people's first port of call, is letting them down.

Though already a popular backpacker destination, China will undoubtedly see this market grow in the next decade. Many independent travellers want to discover for themselves the "Real China" and not be carted from tourist-trap temples to feeble pagodas by boisterous megaphone wielding tour guides.

Countries such as Australia and Thailand have realized that by providing an informed and friendly service, a lot of money can be generated from so-called budget travellers.

Yet in China backpackers are avoiding CITS like the plague! Instances where they have added 75 per cent surcharges onto face values of train and boat tickets do little to promote the company and indeed the country.

In many areas around Yunnan and Guangxi, CITS offices are almost deserted, replaced by Western style cafes which can supply accurate information and travel tickets with speed, efficiency and, more importantly, a smile.

With China hosting the 2008 Olympic Games and visas becoming more readily available there is going to be an influx of travellers entering the country.

But as the industry grows so does the competition for the lucrative "tour group" market, and CITS will have to learn to re-evaluate and improve its services to a whole spectrum of visitors in order to keep its self-proclaimed tag as China's number one travel agency.

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