To feel the pulse of a city, go house hunting
House hunting is like gambling. Till you're not doing it, you're safe. You can't lose what you don't put in the middle.
I recently completed a year of my life in Beijing. And after one year, I've just begun to feel I live in China, the land that houses the most humans in the world.
The more the people, the more the poor; the more the poor, the more the ones that want to get rich; hence, the more who compete, trying to outplay your sensibilities in order to make your money theirs, trying their best to keep it "legal".
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