(shanghaidaily.com)
Updated: 2008-05-04 11:09

Galli's philosophy is to give diners reason to visit the property when they want a fine meal. To hear him wax lyrical about the fuel that sustains us is a moving experience.

"It is important to be recognized for something," he said. "There should be a clear thing in people's minds why they should go somewhere.

"I want to do something simple. Because of the pace of life, people don't necessarily want a 'fancy' meal, unless it's a specific restaurant like Jean-Georges. That's a different story; in general, people want good food in a casual and friendly environment."

Lunch is a breezy affair, with a salad of the day, roast of the day and dessert of the day going for a delicious price of 98 yuan (US$14), plus 15 percent tax. "The price is a bit too reasonable," said chef Galli with tongue planted firmly in cheek. "But I'd rather have a few more people to enjoy it than just a few more bucks in my pocket."

The Caesar salad, made right in the middle of the restaurant, came with strips of freshly roasted chicken, anchovies for saltiness and a lighter dressing that was not cloying.

The prime rib was suitably textured and oozed claret as soon as a knife was sunk into the nicely cooked flesh, while the tiramisu was rustic and had kicks in all the right places.

For dinner, patrons can lick their lips in anticipation of the four lobster varieties done to customers' instructions (225 yuan to 1,100 yuan), red meat of varying cuts and origins, including the legendary chateaubriand (780 yuan). This is thick cut from the tenderloin, similar to a porterhouse, and can feed two people.

As the dining scene, particularly among five-star hotels, goes from strength to strength, it becomes harder to set restaurants apart. Red @ the Grill goes backs to basics, and strives to deliver great food and unflappable service on a consistent basis.

Address: 40/F, 399 Nanjing Rd W.
Tel: 5359-4969

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