(shanghaidaily.com)
Updated: 2008-04-08 11:14

Regular patrons of the Westin Bund Center Shanghai's Prego will be disconsolate to know the Italian restaurant's native chef Dario Congera has said "ciao" after about four years with the property. The Liguria native is moving to Taipei again to further authentic Italian fare at the Shangri-la Far Eastern Plaza Hotel.

While he may already have checked out of the Henan Road hotel, diners can still get a taste of what he was known for with this month's white asparagus menu featuring the exquisite vegetable.

The lily differs from its meatier green counterpart as it was deprived of light as it grew.

As a result, the plant was unable to produce chlorophyll (which gives plants their color) and is slightly milder in taste and more tender.

"White asparagus represents the start of spring, a lovely season," said Congera, whose wife is Taiwanese. "It is very easy to use for everything from salads to soup. Sometimes, if you have really good ones, you can even eat it raw."

The Italian went on to explain that the humble stalk was popular across the continent and in particular his own country. "White asparagus has its roots in Egypt, then Greece then Germany. Now it is enjoyed all over Italy, but mainly in the North."

In keeping with Prego's theme of offering fare from all over the country, the restaurant's white asparagus promotion offers five dishes capturing a snapshot of Italian fare in general.

The classic garden salad (158 yuan/US$22.50) benefited nicely from the asparagus, doubly lending gravitas with a touch of bitterness and then letting the natural sweetness and citrus in the dish pick up the taste of the shellfish.

Next was an asparagus soup (78 yuan) which was just the right level of creaminess.

Italian fare is generally lighter than other continental cuisines, which makes it perfect for the spring. After the heavy stews and rich sauces of the winter, a change in weight on the palate is a welcome switch.

The white asparagus also lent itself to pasta dishes. One was a risotto (Congera's specialty/138 yuan) with black truffle and hit all the right notes - firm rice that matched the texture of the stalk, adequate creaminess and the heavenly aromas of the shaved fungus.

The other was sauteed spaghetti with clams and fresh tomato (138 yuan). Once more, the lightness of the white vegetable meant it did not clash with the seafood, which were suitably enhanced by the fruit.

While Congera, with his winsome personality and undeniable culinary skills, will be sorely missed by both the hotel and guests alike, gourmands can rest easy that he has left behind a legacy of tough standards and a mean kitchen to carry on his good work.

Address: 2/F, 88 Henan Road M.

Tel: 6335-1888