(smartshanghai.com)
Updated: 2007-11-19 13:58

 

Getting back to the table, we both found very polished service for what was the fourth day of operation, including staff making apologies in advance for what they -- or their first customers -- had already pointed out as short comings. For example, the menus, while simply designed had legibility issues in the subdued lighting to the point where the wine and drink lists were difficult to read. With some suggestions from Qian Qian we ordered drinks: a Manhattan for me and the spicy "Firewater" from the Signature Asian Cocktail selection for my friend. The Barman came over to inquire about my preference of Bourbon which was a nice touch given that this is something that can make-or-break a Manhattan. Cocktails arrived, we ordered our meals with some good guidance from our waitress. My friend -- having been forewarned that her drink was spicy -- was finding it a bit much and was happy when the Barman came back over to suggest a replacement, this time a well-received Shanghai Mule.

We had a few minutes to drink and talk before the delicious lots of food began arriving. I started with the French Onion Soup - something of a brasserie cliche/classic. The presentation was convincing and the beef broth deliciously flavored with sweet, slightly caramelized onions - crouton and cheese were both plentiful and delicious in flavor although not quite broiled as crisp as I would have liked. My companion selected the Foie Gras and within a matter of minutes was staring down at the largest serving of foie gras I have ever seen served as an entree. The hockey puck-sized, cut-from-the-lobe slice was prepared simply - salt cured with toast points and a pineapple salsa. While the Foie Gras itself was very enjoyable, the pairing of a relatively bland pineapple salsa didn't quite work and, in the end, it was just too much to finish. After finishing my soup and helping my Foie Gras-loving friend, we still only made it through half of the serving before having to move on to our mains.

Having drained our cocktails, we stopped for a minute to pick wines and not feeling like a whole bottle, we were happy to see over 10 by-the-glass options starting from their 30rmb red/white house wine to a 90rmb Shiraz. I opted for the solid Robert Skalli Cabernet (50rmb) and my friend - carrying on with her habit of ordering the most expensive item in each menu category - took the Shiraz. Both were good quality wines that were in excellent condition for being poured by-the-glass - something that has been problematic for other similarly placed restaurants I've been to.

My friend ordered the Steak Frites (230rmb) and I had the Duck Cooked 2-Ways (110rmb). Both came in large portions that made us both sit back in our chairs and wonder how we were going to make it through our meals and still go out for drinks later. One bite into the steak had my friend praising its merits; it was grilled to a perfect tender, juicy medium and topped with just the right amount of herbed butter. I wasn't buying her "top three steaks of all time" claim until trying it myself agreeing that it's among the best I've had in Shanghai. The Frites were simple - oven roasted until slightly crispy and made of very fresh, very flavorful potato. While I would normally expect my frites fried, in this case we both agreed this was a great counterpoint to richness of the steak.

We focused back over to my duck - or half of a duck in this case. The leg was slow oven roasted with crisp skin and then topped with the braised, sliced breast served in something of an orange sauce/reduction and accompanied by a small poached eggplant. The meat was tender and juicy and the flavor of the sauce balanced well with the relatively strong taste of the duck. My only fault with the dish was that the skin side of the breast had been slightly more seared to crisp the skin and release some of the fat prior to the rest of the braising process. And all through this, I was enjoying our side dish of thin, tender Green Beans with Black Olive Tapenade (15rmb) that had a fresh, interesting flavor.

Then desert - the first was a twist on a brassiere classic, Coconut Creme Brulée and the second was a Caramelized Apple Torte with Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream. Both were very well prepared. The Creme Brulee had the required hard, crisp caramel top layer that broke with a sharp crack from the spoon to reveal a smooth consistent coconut creme underneath. The Torte had thick slices of apple, baked to a deep golden brown layered on a soft crust and topped by ice cream. I don't have the strongest taste for sweet things but these two dishes managed to draw me in with solid flavors and a balanced sugar level.

And so our dinner came to a very satisfied close. The food, service and environment were something far beyond what we both expected particularly when put in context of the total bill. With a kitchen that serves from lunch until late, late night and a bar/supper club feeling as the evening moves on, Hamilton House seems well suited to everything from business lunches to after work drinks to smart-casual-romantic dinners. And I'm looking forward to adding the Hamilton House onto my list of Shanghai standards.

Hamilton House
Address: 137 Fuzhou Lu near Corner Fuzhou Lu and Jiangxi Lu
Tel: 021-63210586

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