By Michael (smartshanghai.com)
Updated: 2007-10-18 10:19

Sasha's has been a favorite hangout of mine for years. I love suffering the heat with cocktails on their patio seating on summer afternoons, and enjoying their warm and classic interior on cold winter nights. As of last month, their second floor is host to a new steak-orientated restaurant called prime.

Australian Chef Julian Robertshaw runs the kitchen, and has crafted a menu inspired by his homeland, although also incorporating a few international flourishes; top quality imported Australian wagyu beef, fresh seafood, and locally grown micro-greens highlight the choices. The steaks (average price 300rmb) are the highlight of the menu, but this is more than a mere steakhouse.

On my first visit, I had an appetizer special of the day -- risotto with mud crab and avocado ice cream -- that was one of the best dishes I've tasted this year in Shanghai. World-class culinary perfection. Other dishes were hit and miss. "Scallops & Prawn" should not be plural -- there was only one small scallop, and one prawn -- and was overpriced at 95rmb. The duck with couscous and a tiny pastille, on the other hand, was more substantial and more worthy of the 150rmb price. It was pink and juicy inside just like I like it, but I found it difficult to cut through with a butter knife and was surprised they couldn't provide a steak knife upon request. The pastilla was delicious but gone in two small bites.

The John Dory fish with mashed potatoes (165rmb) was recommended and I enjoyed the density and flavor of this fish, a rarity on Shanghai menus. Good with a buttery Chardonnay.

The steaks come in even greater portions -- large meaty cuts of grain-fed beef from a respected Australian provider (Stockyard Beef to be exact) -- with a side of Yorkshire pudding and a garnish of pleasantly bitter microgreens. The wagyu rump is actually the least expensive option at 285rmb, and might be large enough to feed two. I was warned the peppercorn steak sauce was spicy, but I found it bland. Needed a bit of salt and pepper.

Vegetable and potato sides are reasonable at 45rmb, but 75rmb for bottled water is unnecessary.

The wine list isn't intimidatingly long, but well-chosen with good variety and price ranges, including some tasty and reasonably-priced reds from the U.S. West Coast. And because you're above Sasha's, there's always some of the better cocktails Shanghai has to offer.

For dessert, the creme brulle (75rmb) was a balanced delight, after suffering through a few too many painfully sweet ones I've experienced around town.

What I like best about Prime is that it's a welcome, civilized escape from the noisy circus outside at Zapatas and Hengshan Lu. While I find the prices-to-portions ratio a bit high on some items, you're getting generally perfect service and comfortable space for a date or business dinner.

Sasha's
Tel: 021-6474 6628
Address: 11 Dongpinglu