(Thats's Beijing)
Updated: 2007-09-13 11:41

The student hangout signature – pictures and notes scribbled on the wall – is only starting to crop up in this off-Houhai newbie, whose hit-and-miss offerings still betray its youth.

The flavorful pan-fried lamb (RMB 10) was a mix of tender and gristly slices. The listless Caesar salad (RMB 16) was disappointing but the bacon and pepper pizza (RMB 38) was a good take on the rule. The portions, like the prices, were small,  the chicken wings (RMB 12) will be ordered to round things off. The juicy wings – marinated in a lively, citrus soy sauce – were the highlight of the evening. While not worth a trek across town, this casual cafe could prove a worthy launch pad for a night of more expensive Houhai adventure.

Knife, Fork, Spoon
Location: Entrance to Qianyuan Ensi Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nandajie, Dongcheng District
Opening hours: 10am-midnight
Tel: 010-6402-8767