By Viva Goldner (China Daily)
Updated: 2007-08-31 11:06

A serene escape from the lively hustle of Houhai Lake lies just a stone's throw away. Make that a trail of pretty, colored glass stones and you'll find yourself at No Name's second location, boasting great Yunnan cuisine and a lush atmosphere.

This spot is only a couple of minutes' walk from the first No Name, the lakefront bar hidden behind thick vines, so named because it had no sign but still found fame through word of mouth. The newer place is just as charming, tucked away in a quiet hutong behind Yinding Bridge.

Look out for the No Name sign opposite, then follow the hand-decorated lanterns with shining glass pebbles leading up to the doorway. The interior is a tropical oasis, with wide palm fronds, wicker furniture, and Dai ethinc-group textiles. And everywhere, those rainbow-hued marbles. They adorn stone floors and mirrors and are even embedded in bathroom walls.

The vibe is laidback and the upstairs terrace a perfect spot for a casual -- though not cheap -- meal with friends.

Prime tables on the upstairs terrace look over rooftops of the neighboring hutong, lending a lovely local feel to this bar-cum-eatery.

On our sunset visit one Friday, an older man from a nearby courtyard home climbed up over the roof with handfuls of little apples that he gave to the waitresses. He then came over to our table with some fruit for us to try.

No Name is certainly a bar well-suited for summer nights, with candles and lanterns and an array of fresh and spicy dishes to savor. The vegetable spring rolls, light and golden, are in a class of their own.

Though staff is not overly attentive and service can be slow, they speak English and certainly know how to mix a Mojito.

The drinks menu features a good range of cocktails, imported wine and beer as well as herb and fruit tea and an exotic selection of juices.

Downstairs is the central bar, plus a beautiful mosaic feature set among green foliage. Relax on bright sofas or benches at this comfortable and stylish destination. It is an unhurried place, popular with tourists, international residents, and others who come to remember how good life really is.

This No Name - the other does not have a restaurant - closes at midnight, but should you want to kick on, head to the sister joint, housed in a double-storey wooden hut, also with funky dcor, a young, mainly foreign crowd and smooth drinks.

Both establishments are owned by the ex-concert cellist Bai Feng, a creative businessman who conceived them as no-fuss, backyard hideaways with an edge.

No Name bar
Open: 11am-12am.
Location: 1 Dajinsi Hutong, Xicheng District
Tel: 010-6618-6061