(China daily)
Updated: 2007-04-09 10:17

Just as no true international city would be complete without a Chinese takeaway, so it is true of Irish pubs.

A modern metropolis without an emerald isle-themed boozer would be like a pen without a nib - pointless. And in Beijing, this mantle, this measure of all things metropolitan, is Durty Nellies, a sprawling basement pub that is as loud and proud as its faux dcor is fabulously, tackily, "Irish". Think Disney World does Ireland and you'll be on the right lines.

Michael Collins portraits compete for wall space with dated photos of the Irish rugby team, model leprechauns dot the bar and an Irish tricolour hangs at the back of the room. But if you can smile at the stereotypes and have cash to splash, Durty Nellies really isn't all that bad. A pint of the black stuff comes in at 50 yuan a pop and if Guinness isn't your thing there's a selection of other beers including Kilkenny (50 yuan), Carlsberg (50 yuan) and Tsingtao (25 yuan) on tap. Hearty pub grub includes Irish stew, chunky burgers and sirloin steak (100 yuan). If drinking Guinness isn't sport enough, there's a pool table and dartboard at the front of the pub to keep punters occupied. The small stage at the back of Durty Nellies plays host to live bands (most local but occasionally Irish) at the weekends. Stay late on a Friday or Saturday and you may hear an out-of-tune crooner belting out Danny Boy.

Durty Nellies
Address: 1/B Liangmaqiao Flower Market.
Tel: 010-6593-5050.