This was very much the case when Hugo opened with pomp and ceremony last October. While there was no doubt whatsoever with regards to the quality of food on offer, the stiff prices led many to wonder just who it was that the restaurant wanted to sell food to.

A dining house of this quality was too good to be kept a secret, and the marketing folk have given its previous strategy a long-hard look. A trade-off is usually involved - lowering prices and making the fare more accessible means losing exclusivity.

This would have been a big deal to the grand Weihai Road restaurant. The Spanish Villa that was built in 1911 and subsequently expanded in 1934 used to house a kindergarten in the 1930s. The building was left to dereliction and was painstakingly restored by local businessman Hu Xidi.

The Wenzhou native had spent many years in The Netherlands before settling in Shanghai with his family in 2001. While he agreed that there was no traditional cuisine per se, items such as Dutch pancakes (36 yuan/US$4.70) proved to be a big hit with the local Dutch community. The tasty thin pastry is served with a choice of apple, bacon or pineapple topping.

The Hague-like building would therefore be wasted if every Tom, Dick or Harry rocked up and dragged dirt through the lavish premises. The trick, as it turned out, was simple - just put the ball in the chef's hands for all food-related matters.

Chef Niels van Halen professes to no ability on the guitar but enjoys a wealth of kitchen experience. The Dutchman's versatility to adapt is highlighted in the new Asian dishes in the lunch menu. Diners can enjoy nasi goreng (fried rice) for 38 yuan or sliced beef tenderloin in onion and oyster sauce with steamed rice for 58 yuan.

In addition, sandwiches, burgers and pastas are available for between 48 and 68 yuan for hungry patrons seeking a quick bite for the midday meal.

The usual French fare is still available, with mixed grilled meat consisting of tuna, sausage, chicken satay and beef going for 158 yuan and sauteed beef tenderloin at the same price.

Diners selecting these main courses can enjoy a soup or appetizer for free. This mean they get to enjoy the Parma ham and cantaloupe, Caesar salad or Mediterranean seafood soup.

The second-floor bar is often neglected, but the establishment is not forgetting its unique lounge. Every Saturday from 8pm until late, the venue hosts a Super Mixer Party for urban professionals to mingle. A cover of 99 yuan gets a special cocktail and a selection of delicious finger foods.

Martini fans can also try their luck on Tuesday and Wednesday. After buying a single cocktail at regular price, punters can roll a die to determine how much subsequent drinks cost, meaning martinis cost anything between 10 and 60 yuan.

Hugo
Address: No. 4, Lane 289 Weihai Road
Tel: 021-63278828