(smartshanghai.com)
Updated: 2007-03-23 14:58

For those of you that have been living under a rock since September, there is a massive club on the Bund called Attica. What not all people realize however is that perhaps the best aspect ofAtticais its sister restaurant, Finestre.

My accomplice in gluttony and I dined on a plethora of plates prepared and even served by (!) Chef Sean. And yes, he does do this all the time, even for non-reviewers. He will even humour your ignorant food-related questions and requests with passion and lack of 'tude (which comes in handy when going with vain gay boyfriends that ask for everything on the side).

We were first teased and tantalized by a selection of the 8 antipasti - highlights included the prosciutto and pear with candied crystallized thyme, tomato & artichoke (with bocconcini, basil, and balsamic drizzle), and the roasted vegetables (simplicity perfected ... and ideal for those on a post-weekend-champagne-binge-health food kick). Perhaps my favourite item was the spanikopita (which I feel are very underrated in this city!) with kaffir lime sauce, served over hydroponic weeds (man). Not those salad packs from Carrefour that so many "fine dining" restaurants use. Finally (and before you read further please do realize that we were gluttonous pigs), we had the calamari starter- which was great because it was mostly squid and not so much batter. For 30-80 RMB a plate, the antipasti/appetizers were plentiful and quality items.

The first disappointment (because nothing can be perfect, unless you're being paid to advertise it) were the zucchini courgettes (little fried French things). Although warm and melty in the middle, they had been doused in an amount of salt that would make the Dead Sea jealous. What they accompanied however was 'parfait' - Chef Sean's gourmet version of fishsticks on skewers- swordfish involtini (aka seared steak of the sea), which were far superior to the kind found so plentifully in the frozen foods section of American shops. They were served with charmoula sauce (yes, I did bring a pen and paper to dinner) which is in essence a moroccan "relish" made of oranges and grapefruit.

Finally, after a long pause and a glass of wine, we ordered the main courses: surf and turf, respectively. Let's start with the bad news first: the lobster (180 RMB) was overwhelmed by too many flavours for my shy palate: it was firstly broiled in chili butter, and then served over succotash (creamed leeks and a little herbed vinaigrette that echoed Chef Sean's southern heritage). Although all the components were quality, together they were too much. I'm a lobster purist and prefer plain butter. Now the good news is the steak (& frites- 130 RMB) was honestly the best I've ever had in Shanghai ... in fact, the best I've had in years. I've had dreams about this steak, day and night, since eating it. I asked for it medium-rare, which anyone who's ever ordered a steak in Shanghai knows is like asking for hell to freeze over, and it was actually perfectly so! Seared and crispy on the outside, almost bloody (but definitely not) on the inside ... I am actually salivating writing this. Order the steak.

Not that this amount of food wasn't enough (they had to roll me out of the restaurant at the end despite my not finishing anything), but of course we all know that genetically certain people have evolved to boast another stomach: for dessert. These people tend to be women. My friend had the dessert she swears by, the Velvet Elvis (a thick brownie engulfed by sauce, cappuccino ice cream, and caramelized bananas). As for me, I tried the pear tart (although I must attest, as a seasoned creme brule fanatic, that it is the best in the city): a little pie with ice cream topped with prosciutto of all things (sounds disgusting, I know, but it's not). 50 RMB each.

Apart from recommending the food, which I highly do, there is another imperative thing: book depending on the atmosphere you desire. Although I far prefer the intimate design of the booths in the hall (notably lined with bottega-veneta-esque leather weave), the open area in the cupola is far quieter. Despite the admirable attempt of lounge music to overpower the adjacent club's booming base which in any case doesn't start till around 11pm. The booths are however good if you are having a dinner before you party, as they will definitely put you in the mood.

Finally, the service was superior to most. They even spun the Pellegrino bottle towards you like they do with wine in a classy restaurant, and they were attentive but not to the point of hovering intimidatingly over your table.

Overall, by all means go to Finestre, but beware of the "boom boom" by sitting strategically or by going on a night when the club is closed.

Finestre
Location: 11F, 15 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu, near Jin Ling Dong Lu
Tel: 021-63734818