Fans of the cuisine who do not want their Prada jackets and Dior purses smelling like last night's meal for weeks can rejoice and head over to Colourful Hotpot to sample the fare in pleasant, civilized and well-ventilated surroundings.

Run by the same folks behind the hugely-popular Shanghai Tang chain of fashion boutiques, the Yandang Road restaurant offers individual pots in similar vein to the Japanese style of shabu-shabu.

Unlike the version from the Land of the Rising Sun, however, diners at Colourful Hotpot can choose from a variety of broth bases for dipping ingredients. These range from simple clear stock (10 yuan/US$1.30) to a tastier assorted mushroom soup (18 yuan) or a more extravagant shark's fin essence (20 yuan).

Hot pot is one of those oddly-compelling things, like the Tamagotchi or hip-hop music. Oftentimes there is nothing immediately discernible from any of these, yet something manages to coerce you into giving them another go.

Often touted as the perfect tonic for the cooler wintry months, the heightened temperature of the dining room and the inevitable bullets of sweat give diners the confidence boost so needed to face the balmy cold outside.

Contrary to popular belief, hot pot was not invented by peasants inhabiting the riverbank and chancing upon the funky flavors imparted when dipping days-old meat in the gruel from the nearest water source.

Rather, it was Genghis Khan and his warlike impatience that sparked off the trend. The famed warrior ordered his fighting cooks to slice meat thinly as often his men had to eat quickly and be on the move. In addition, he had his foot soldiers huddle around a giant vat of boiling water for an efficient way of feeding his army.

Colourful Hotpot may not hold a standing army, but with a capacity of 250 it should suffice for an invasion of revelers from the nearby Fuxing Park discos and KTV joints. Opened last August, the restaurant attracts a higher-end clientele and is hoping to lure expats and tourists who may have been put off from the usual variety of hot pot environs.

Designed by the same Swedish designer as the Shanghai Tang outlets that have been built worldwide since 2003, the decor is restrained and tasteful yet rich with elements of China without pandering to touristy gimmicks.

The warming properties of the cuisine are touted, and the yang to this ying comes in the form of a special dipping sauce made mostly from sesame that is tweaked each season.

Meat such as mutton is particularly "heaty," and thus should be coated in the "cooling" condiment before tucking in.

As such a venue would suggest, the ingredients on offer are of the finest order. Australian wagyu beef is on the menu at 438 yuan for 200 grams, while Inner Mongolian lamb slices are considerably cheaper at 28 yuan.

The usual hot pot balls are between 38 and 68 yuan, while a refreshing dessert such as bird's nest with rock sugar fetches 160 yuan.

The restaurant is great for novices to this style of eating, those who demand good quality and fresh ingredients and people who simply feel that mess only belongs in a mess hall.

Diners not keen on paying through the nose for the better choices of meat and seafood can still enjoy a reasonably-priced meal with more modest selections. As with most Asian cuisine, it is best enjoyed in larger groups.

Colourful Hotpot
Address: 99 Yandang Road
Tel: 021-51579999