Step into Shanxi Lu's Devil Nut Pongo Shop and the first thing you'll notice is rows of thick-soled Timberland boots and racks of hoodies in kaleidoscopic prints. With this sort of stock you might expect to hear a rap soundtrack, or see an accessory case of phony dookie chains. But Pongo Shop is not just another hip hop costume shop. Look closer and you'll see a militant approach to industrial-strength design best exemplified in their offbeat slogans.

"Hip hop isn't our main product interest," explains designer Sun Lu. "We're interested in presenting multiple styles of garments that draw inspiration from foreign political cartoons and military garments."

But what, exactly, is a Devil Nut?

"Devil Nut is actually the strange fruit that a character named Monkey D Luffy eats on the anime show One Piece," explains Sun. And like One Piece's often scathing satire, Devil Nut approaches some serious themes with a perverse sense of humor.

Their winter 2007 line of hoodies features prints of glaring aliens and the recurring phrase 'Hate and War'. This season's mascot is an eyeless smiley face with a toothy grimace. The simple, clean design is far removed from its cuter Hello Kitty cousins around town. Asked about the character's personality, Sun shrugs, "It's a reflection of my personal complexes."

But while possibly not the best choice of clothes to wear to a peace rally, Devil Nut's designs are remarkably consistent in quality and craftsmanship. Their line of MA-1 flight jackets features premium, military-grade ballistic nylon shells with heavy zippers and ribbed cuffs to match. Additional details on the sleeves and back include embroidered Buddha hands tossing up traditional signs. Other flight jackets, cut for ladies, take a page from the classic punk rock handbook with steel studs and jagged stitching, along with a bright palette of applied decals.

And while the bold colors and elaborate prints echo similar trends in neighboring hip hop streetwear shops, the similarities end there. Sun points out that, "Devil Nut has no relation with these so-called 'Shanghai street brands'. Designer Zhao Yilong wanted to create a new brand that could be an ideal of our design staff's interests. So we're a little dark."

The shop boasts several unique styles of jeans as well, all bearing hand-finished details and super tough, premium denim. "One of my favorite garment designs is the Levis 501xx jean in its 1930 model," says Sun.

Granted that model is considered a classic, but the details of Levis long-running 501xx model have changed radically since the first pair appeared a century ago. That said, the 1930 design is a landmark design, which included both belt loops and waist buttons for attaching a pair of suspenders, along with an attached cinch on the upper yoke. Built for miners and workmen, it's a hallmark of heavy-duty functionality.

While Levis doesn't make them like they used to, Devil Nut's denim line opts for premium quality materials and artistic finishing touches. A pair of their raw denim jeans is constructed with selvedge cotton with a deep, indigo cast. Hand-painted art on the butt pockets and embroidered hanzi adorn the legs. Pre-washed models sport the careful sanding and nicks of a convincing fade that looks like it's been earned the hard way, through long wear.

Also impressive is the affordable price of these high-end takes on streetwear. Those flight jackets sell for just RMB 495, while a pair of raw denim jeans costs RMB 800, definitely a solid-steel bargain. Watch out for Devil Nut's 'Under Red Flag' line which will debut in Spring/Summer 2007, and feature even more detailed, delicate cuts in both men's and women's garments.

Devil Nut Pongo Shop
Location: No.11 Shanxi Nan Lu, by Julu Lu
Tel: 021-62714285