(That's Shanghai)
Updated: 2007-03-09 11:11

In the 1920s, America outlawed the sale of liquor, which forced the drinking public to consume their beverages in illicit, hole-in-the-wall locales. The "speakeasy" became an institution, one that has been revived of late on the Tongren Lu bar strip, with two main differences: one, alcohol is legally sold, and two, a flashing yellow sign shouts the presence of Speakeasy whereas the original whispered.

That said, the space is relatively small, lit by a flood of blue and pink dots of light streaming across the room. We sunk into one of the unusual Persian-style couches, listening to the R&B music coming from an LCD screen near the bar. Heavily made-up waitresses with dyed hair and tight-fitting blouses and jeans offered us a standard list of beers (RMB 35-40) and cocktails (RMB 40-60).

This Speakeasy is a perfect hideaway for balding, stout men who wish to flirt with the young waitresses, but with none of the forbidden charm of old.

Speakeasy
Open: Daily 7pm-5am. No cards.
Location: 72 Tongren Lu, by Yan'an Xi Lu
Tel: 021-62790338