"There's a different balance in the level of truffles with each dish," he said at the recent unveiling of his promotional menu. "You have to look at the way the truffle imparts its flavor on each dish."

As with any menu at the restaurant, diners can expect to be pleasantly surprised. The meal starts with an interesting concoction of rare scallop, sea urchin sashimi, bits of black truffle and sake and truffle jelly. This is a typical Laris creation.

The flavors and textures work on multiple layers, and the separate ingredients come together to prove that the dish is more than just a sum of its parts.

Sea urchin is increasingly trendy, and diners can expect to see more of it on high-end menus in the coming year.

Another item out of the seven courses is simply a rendition of eggs and cheese on toast. Of course, in overwrought indulgent fashion, the dish consists of quail eggs, Fontana cheese and truffle-infused focaccia. Not that anyone would complain, of course.

The roast pigeon breast filled with truffles in cinnamon and sherry jus was a hearty dish, with the sweet sauce a little on the heavy side. The pairing of a big, blockbuster wine such as the Michele Chiarlo 2003 barbaresco should chew right through the fatty bird.

The wine pairings are from a selection of Italian offerings from ASC Fine Wines.

Diners can enjoy a glass with each course from Lungarotti, Donnafugata, Ruffino and the aforementioned Michele Chiarlo.

The set menu is 880 yuan (US$114) per person, with the wine pairing an additional 400 yuan.

Address: 6/F, 3 Zhongshan Road E1
Tel: 021-63219922

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