(shanghai daily)
Updated: 2007-02-05 09:07

In this day and age of global business travel, the accommodation demands of frequent flyers are basic - a clean, safe and comfortable room, a pool, a gym, a television, a shower and a work station will usually suffice.

These slaves to the system also need a place to eat. After getting off a long flight, it helps to have decent food within easy access without having to trek all the way across the city.

The recently-opened Eton Hotel has these things in mind for business travelers. The Philippine chain established its first property on China's mainland on Dongfang Road, smack-bang near the bustling Lujiazui financial area.

Thankfully, the 462-room tower has eschewed the typical, and has executed a restaurant that encompasses the unusual combination of Japanese and South American fare at Jala. While the links between the two are not obvious, the menu designed by Chef Charles Wu had the right elements in mind.

Seafood with a dash of South American flavor sounds good on paper, and should prove to be a novelty to most local residents.

The menu at Jala is actually three menus in one. Diners can choose from a pure Japanese or a South American selection; they can also sample a fusion of the two.

Wu's presentation was also creative, delivering dishes that looked tantalizing.

The ebi tempura (80 yuan/US$10.30), however, was far too oily and soggy.

The stand-alone South American menu seemed sound. The rum and sugar cane marinated tuna with dried shrimp salsa (138 yuan) was intriguing and the flavor multilayered. This dish was good and might have been even better if the portion was a little smaller since the last few bites were not as fun as the first few.

The fusion elements were certainly a bold attempt. Diners can order a Jala Taster Sampler (138 yuan) to try what the concept is attempting to achieve.

The Shanghai crab sushi made one wonder which part of South America hairy crabs come from. Poached foie gras with shark's fin and carrot sauce made more overtures towards the Southern Hemisphere than its counterpart green miso-marinated bamboo did. That said, all the items had the right idea in mind.

Too many places throw a few ingredients in a dish and call it fusion.

Chef Wu has been taught that fusion is more a combination of flavors and techniques and this restaurant certainly has potential to expand on this.

Eton Hotel
Address: 4/F, 69 Dongfang Road
Tel: 021-3878-9888 ext 6340