Italian restaurant Danieli's is certainly among the finest in city. Critically acclaimed by myriad local media outlets, the food on offer here matches the grandeur of the palatial setting. Diners with deep pockets are bound not to be disappointed.

Sunday brunch is thus a great way to enjoy this irresistible Italian fare while getting some kind of value for money. The concept is extremely popular around town and some of the top hotels and restaurants prepare a spread meant to be consumed at a leisurely pace and washed down with heaps of bubbly.

The first attraction of the "La Domenica Sunday Lunch" (398 yuan/US$50), which means "Sunday Sunday Lunch" in case you need to be reminded what day it is, is that the food is accompanied by a free flow of Bollinger Special Cuvee non-vintage champagne. Regular readers of this paper will notice the love this reporter has for this exquisite drop. This is a sparkling wine that is meant to be tasted and savored; complex on the palate, unexpectedly delicate and a refreshingly dry, lingering finish.

The 318-room hotel is the only one in Shanghai to be providing this label with Sunday lunch.

"Bollinger champagne is a premium wine that matches the St Regis brand quite well," said Charles Abbot, the property's general manager. "We hope to satisfy guests who are searching for quality in life and a fine food and beverage experience."

The individualized attention is another draw. Unlike other hotels where the meal is served buffet style, Danieli's lunch is a sit-down affair. The efficient service staff is at arm's length to see to guests' wishes without getting in the way, and diners can enjoy the meal without having to make repeated trips to the serving area.

Diners are welcome to take as much as they like from the antipasto selection, however. The selection features top-notch cold cuts, scallops, mushrooms, shrimp, arugula and a selection of cheese, among others.

The main menu may not offer extensive options that buffets may be able to provide, but there is still plenty of choice. The marvel of such focus means everything matches the champagne extremely well.

The sliced cuttlefish soup was thin and tasty, and the flesh of the seafood was sweet and succulent. The bruschetta was also excellent.

The prosciutto, asparagus and mushroom pesto fusilli was also a light affair. A heavy pasta course usually fills the stomach too quickly, but the portion served was just right.

The piece de resistance was grilled salmon with porcini mushrooms and capers. This was a sensational piece of fish that begged to be called a work of art. The grilled skin was moderately crisped, while the suitable fat content of the salmon ensured consistent moisture throughout the flesh.

Until the end of February, one can spoil themselves with the "Champagne Weekend" promotion at the hotel. For 2,098 yuan, two people can check into a deluxe room on Saturday afternoon and enjoy the fantastic lunch the next day.

Each room is assigned an around-the-clock butler to see to every conceivable need, and this dedication to service takes away the stress of unfamiliar surroundings.

While other hotels provide many of the services at hand, such as laundry or shoe shining, having a human face one can relate to means not having to worry if one's brogues, for example, disappear into the unknown beyond the confines of the room.

The rooms are tastefully decorated and bring comfort to another level. It is this attention to detail that is so astonishing, from the adjustable brightness of the reading lights to the quality finishing in the bathroom. International visitors can also enjoy airport transfers in luxury sedans.

While enjoying a night's stay with wireless Internet and snacks and beverages provided in the executive lounge throughout the day may not exactly be strenuous activity, the very thought of the mid-Sunday feast will be enough to work up an appetite.

Danieli's
Address: 889 Dongfang Road
Tel: 021-5050-4567