The concept of a brasserie-a laidback, neighborhood restaurant with hearty food-is somewhat antithetical to Shanghai's high-gloss culture. As such, very few have managed to get it right. Hugo Brasserie, however, does better than most.

Our meal was something of a decrescendo, beginning with excellent fresh bread and a lovely set of shrimp croquettes and apple fennel salad with spicy mayo (RMB 72). The crispy shell of the croquettes gave way to a rich savory filling, nicely balanced by the freshness of the apple fennel salad. The grilled tuna steak with sweet peas and red onion (RMB 118), though beautifully presented, was a tad small and a wee bit dry. The tagliatelle with mushrooms, artichokes, tomato, spring onion and basil (RMB 88), a cross between a rose sauce and a stroganoff, seemed to be suffering an identity crisis.

The value and decor were at par, but the service, though fast and professional, was characterized by a feeling of simmering resentment.

Hugo brasserie 
Location: No. 4, Lane 289 Weihai Lu, by Chengdu Bei Lu
Tel: 021-63278828
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 278