Amidst the tranquil gardens of the Ruijin Hotel on Ruijin No.2 Road lies the four year-old restaurant. The alfresco area immediately captures the attention, with a wooden deck and furniture and an outdoor grill. The wood is weather beaten, giving the place a dollop of character, and as the sun goes down over the bustling city, presents itself as a dish of equal parts romance and sexy maturity.

The restaurant, you see, is not for the adolescent and his Hello Kitty girlfriend. This is where the well-dressed man will be seen, a beautiful lady on his arm. On a nice night such as the many this city is about to experience as summer fades gently into fall, the discerning couple can lose themselves in the beautiful setting that seems straight off a movie set.

For those unfamiliar with the Ruijin Hotel, this is what you've been missing out on: A collection of high-end dining outlets inside of a European-style garden hotel. Built in the 1930s but with a couple of new additions, the compound provides a sanctuary from the big, bad world just a block away. The breeze feels cooler and the grass seems greener than anywhere else in Puxi; the little lakes and tiny bridges amidst rare flowers and plants conjure memories of old Shanghai.

Having a drink downstairs is enough to get the loving feeling flowing. The drinks list is adequate with a selection of wine, beers and standard cocktails. A frozen daiquiri or margarita costs 55 yuan (US$6.87).

The glass-enclosed interior is modern, and exudes a cool air about itself. Perfect for dates adverse to mosquitoes, the see-through walls still offer a good view of the garden outside. The second-floor of the three-story building is a fine-dining area with a private room for large groups of guests. The decor here continues with the modern chic look, with glass stairs and black leather sofas.

The top floor features another bar with booths, and a glass-enclosed balcony with Chinese den-style beds; on a clear night amorous couples can cuddle up and gaze up into the night sky while enjoying a nightcap.

The food does the surroundings justice, and then some. A simple Caesar salad (58 yuan) was given the proper attention, with fresh crisp lettuce, real bits of bacon and a welcome amount of sauce that did not try to recreate Noah's flood.

The roast codfish (178 yuan) had a pleasant buttery taste to it, which went nicely with the spicy black pepper sauce.

The shrimp risotto in a mushroom cream sauce (88 yuan) was a winner. At first glance it appeared to be a little too watery, but a spoonful of the Italian short-grain rice, quite a tricky proposition for many chefs, put the mind at ease. Delightfully rich, the dish also came in a portion almost too much to handle.

The menu has recently been revamped by new General Manager Chen Qin who lived in Japan for 15 years before returning home recently.

"I changed the menu based on the things I enjoy," the Shanghainese said. "Some little touches, like black pepper sauce (on the fish) have been my idea."

The restaurant offers an all-you-can-eat barbecue for 198 yuan daily, and a two-for-one drink deal on soft drinks and beer that runs from 5pm to 11pm.

Starting in October, a weekend brunch will also be available from 11am to 3:30pm. Diners can fill their plates from a salad bar, a wide variety of hot dishes, anything from the aforementioned grill and also sweets from a dessert bar. The brunch will also be priced at 198 yuan.

The restaurant offers a special set menu on Mid-autumn night, which falls on October 6. It costs 288 yuan for four courses. Diners buying five sets can get one free, and buying three sets get one for half price.

Address: Villa 11, 118 Ruijin No.2 Road
Tel:021-54665577