By Helen Roxburgh (Shanghai Star)
Updated: 2006-07-31 10:25

One of the most exclusive hotels in Shanghai also boasts one of the most exclusive restaurants, with spectacular views across the river.

Jade on 36 is the signature restaurant of the Shangri-La Hotel in the Lujiazui District of Pudong, with a romantic ambiance,sophisticated decor and being-as the name suggests-located on the 36th floor, it is a perfect place to watch the sun set over the city.

Eight set menus include large meals of eight dishes and smaller meals of five dishes and an impressive and original array of drinks.

The manager describes the food as "international travel cuisine" from across the world, including French, Malaysian and Japanese, creatively integrated into one meal.

The French chef, Paul Pairet, has been with the restaurant since it opened a year ago and takes particular pride in the originality of his food, describing it as "interest Breathtaking dining on the Bunding, new, daring...even amusing."

The presentation is certainly unique, with each dish explained as it is served, such as whether you should use cutlery or chopsticks.

All the dishes are presented in an original and sometimes intriguing manner: The restaurant's signature dish, Jumbo Shrimp, is on a skewer inside a large jar to preserve the flavour whilst cooking.

This original dish is delicious. The seafood is cooked to perfection with a citrus taste and superb Asian soy sauce.

The aromatic sauce is unusual, combining orange peel and juice, coriander and bay leaf, but the overall taste is very pleasant and the unusual presentation of the food is part of the fun.

For the next course, the oysters, are pressed closed with pegs, to be opened by the diner at the table so that none of the taste is lost when the food is roasted.

The Black Cod Hong Kong dish is another favourite, cooked in a clear bag to maintain not only its flavour but also its aroma until serving. The dish is presented with creamy rice, spring onion and mushrooms.

Complimentary salmon mousse, croutons and bread are served through the meal, freshly made. The Pomelo appetizer,a mix of sorbet, thinly sliced apple, champagne grenadine and jelly, has a refreshing and clean taste to clear away any lingering taste in anticipation of the meal.

Of course, this high level of dining is reflected in the high price, with the large set meals ranging from 650 yuan (US$81) up to 888 yuan (US$111).

However, this is a very special place - after all, the lemon sorbet dessert in an edible candy shell takes four days for the chef to prepare and you certainly get the standards you pay for.

The staff are professional, friendly and very attentive and even the drinks served with the meal are original, presented in tall, sleek glasses.

The only real down point of the meal was the rather bizarre ketchup sorbet which accompanied the Mozza salad, which tasted to me just like a ball of ketchup,to be swallowed whole.

However, this is a small negative against eight courses of perfection: the Beef Short Rib in Japanese Teriyaki sauce is particularly tender, served with creamy mashed potato and greens.

The menu is adapted every few months, according to the seasonal foods available.

The restaurant has one VIP room available and just across the hotel is the newly designed bar, which offers more spectacular views looking out across the river onto Puxi from a sophisticated and relaxed area.

The soft music and lighting, comfortable restaurant, superior food and of course the stunning view of the Bund at night makes this venue the perfect, if pricey, choice for a special night out.

Jade on 36
Location: 36F, Shangri-La Hotel (the new tower), No. 33 Fuchenglu
Tel: 021-68823636