For Shanghainese food there's always the glamorous favorite, Ye Shanghai (shanghai). The xiaolong bao (steamed buns filled with pork and a fragrant broth, RMB 46) will have your guests enthusiastically testing the waters of local cuisine without later risk of Immodium-popping, while the mango pudding (RMB 30) will make them forget how many flavors there are at Haagan Dazs.

A less glitzy alternative that's easier on the wallet (they're only your parents, after all) is Grape (shanghai). Get a private room upstairs, 10 friends, and a few large bottles of Tsingtao for a memorable evening. The authenticity of the sweet lemon pork is suspect, which is probably why it's a big hit with most foreigners.

Now legendary is Guyi (hunan) with its wide selection of spicy and mild dishes that make it suitable for all eaters. For the adventurous visitor, laziji (chicken with chili peppers,RMB 39) will help visitors understand why you won't take them to KFC.

Can't get a table at Guyi? An alternative is Dishuidong (hunan), which has delicious ribs (RMB 38) that won't take the spice level too far past anyone's threshold. As an added bonus, the cathartic experience of emerging into the French Concession's quiet, crisp night air as a pepper-induced sweat cools will make anyone's trip a memorable one.

Nearby, close to the intersection of Dongping Lu and Wulumuqi Lu, is Pinchuan (Sichuan). The fish-flavored pork (yuxiang rousi, RMB 29) will prove itself a hit with everyone-even your bratty nephew and your slightly unrefined fratmate, Boomer.

Ye Shanghai
Location: House 6 North Block Xintiandi Lane, No. 181 Tiacanglu
Tel: 021-63112323 

Grape
Location: 55A Xinlelu, Xuhui
Tel: 021-54040486

Guyi
Location: 2/F, No. 66 Lane 999, Changshoulu
Tel: 021-62328377

Dishuidong
Location: 2/F, No. 56 Maoming Nanlu
Tel: 021-62532689

Pinchuan
Location: close to the intersection of Dongpinglu and Wulumuqilu