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Charming Nanluogu Xiang Updated: 2006-03-15 22:16
Getting off the bus, whisking the dust off my coat, I made the decision to
walk over my Saturday.
Bathing in the spring sunshine, and tightening my
backpack, I took the first stride, then a secons, then a third, and so on.
Unaware of the metropolitan hustle and bustle, with an empty blank mind, I just
kept walking. Walking through numerous hutongs, strolling across innumerable
courtyards.
Then, unexpectedly, several thousand strides later, I had the
legendary Nanluogu Xiang in my face, and a blood-red sky to my back.
Time
lapses quietly, as do events. Years of hundred have consumed the splendor of
this Yuan Dynasty artery, while in the meantime growing the legend of Nanluogu
Xiang, home to several delicate bars.
Delicacy is my comment on this
emerging bar street, for its unique quietness as a congregation zone of bars,
for its ancient architectures presenting a faithful picture of old Beijing, and
for the leisure and ease of those bar-goers in this hutong.
Have had
enough of the noise and sophistication of Sanlitun or Shichahai, and want a
change? Nanluogu Xiang might be a nice alternative.
* Local
Time - the sandglass of Nanluogu Xiang Area: 30m2, yet 3m
high Business Hours: 1:00pm-12:00 midnight (Depending on what time the owner
gets up, opening time ranges between 12:00 noon and 2:00pm) Feature: Local
Time coffee Add: No. 1 Nanluogu Xiang Summary: Every bar street has its
own timetable and also its own way of measuring time. Local Time is the
sandglass of Nanluogu Xiang, and its birth outlines the profile of the whole
hutong.
With its somewhat conservative decoration, this bar fits
perfectly well with the antiquity of the old hutong in the Gulou area. Big
wooden shelf, old wooden table, stout wooden beamsˇare all a reflection of old
Beijing.
Yet, the glass roof of the passage connecting the gate to the
arch-house betrays the rusticity of this bar. The sunshine penetrates through
the roof and lightens the counter. The glasses glisten, while the mixer is more
like an actor on the stage presenting a cocktail show.
*
Street Corner - the smell of birch Area:
65m2 Accommodation: 50 people Feature: Russian coffee Business Hours:
2:00pm-2:00am Add: No. 23 Nanluogu Xiang Tel: 010-86964458 Summary: A
couple(both Russian majors who have lived in Russia for quite a long period)
manages this bar. Perhaps it is because the Russian culture has filtered into
the blood of this couple that, with the all-Russian style roof and the fireplace
against the main wallˇ Street Corner offers you a completely Russian
atmosphere.
The husband is a cognoscente of red wine. With carefully
chose wine suppliers, the red wine provided by Street Corner may satisfy the
clients in all aspects. Besides, though a bar, Street Corner also provides
coffee, ground from a coffee machine imported from Italy, worth 45,000
Yuan.
Want to watch a live coffee-grinding show? Try Street
Corner.
* Here - for photography lovers Business
Hours: 2:00pm-2:00am Feature: daily coffee Tel: 010-84014246 Add: No.
97 Nanluogu Xiang Summary: Also nicknamed as "No.2 There" because the bar
before Here was called "There," Here offers you a world of "black and white.
The boss, a former photographer, is interested in photographing ordinary
people. He decorates this bar with his own works, all black and white, recording
the ordinary life of ordinary Beijingers as well as the ups and downs of Beijing
City in the last several years. The black and white snapshots will make you
meditate. Even those tiny adornments interspersing across the bar are related
to photography -- the outdated cameras, mounds of photographing books, and
craftwork of shooting valueˇ
Three big rooms make up this bar, forming
into a "T" shape. Each room has its own layout and theme to cater to people of
different moods.
If you are a frequent client, you are also entitled to a
cup of Gongfu tea prepared by the boss
personally.
* Xiaoxin' s Bar - for the delicious
food Space: 55m2 Accommodation: 20 people Business Hours:
10:00am-2:00am Tel: 010-64036956 Add: No. 103 Nanluogu Xiang Summary:
Xiaoxin's Bar is more like a cozy home. Plain decorations create an easy and
intimate atmosphere. Yet careful clients will discover that each piece of
furniture, though casually laid here and there, is a piece of
masterwork.
On the roof of the bar is a set of connected louvers, through
which daytime sunshine penetrates and brings those inside warmth and softness,
and through which the night-lovers may appreciate a beautiful nocturne.
However, the biggest attraction of Xiaoxin's Bar is nothing but the
delicious food prepared by the boss Xiaoxin himself. Cheesecake, spaghetti, and
the most well-renowned pizza all make your presence here a memorable
stay.
* Passby Bar - for free travelers Business
Hours: 2:00pm-2:00am Feature: Passby Yangrouchuan Pizza (RMB50) Passby
Gongbaojiding Pizza (RMB50) Lost Shoes (for ladies RMB32/cup) Tel:
010-84038004 Add: No. 108 Nanluogu Xiang Summary: Occupying an entire
courtyard and featuring a tour, Passby Bar is managed by a couple. The husband
is a free traveler who has bicycled to Tibet from Beijing. This bar is decorated
with souvenirs brought home by him from all over China, and pamphlets helpful
for free travels. Besides, it has free traveling lectures delivered twice
weekly. (By free, do you mena independent?)
With the unique Passby
pizza, the slender grilled mutton, and the Western cheese, even if you are the
most traveling of hearts, you will be satisfied to take a break from trekking,
as you drink beer and chat with those sharing the same
hobbies.
* Hongrenfang Bar - for the Chinese "Tian
Di Yuan Huang" Space: 70m2 Accommodation: 50 people Business Hours:
2:00pm-2:00am Tel: 010-64049088 Add: No. 111 Nanluogu Xiang Summary: 12
pendant-lights resemble 12 horoscopes, while 12 tables symbolize 12 traditional
Chinese animals. So, whatever year/month you were born in, you can have your own
table, and your own light.
Red light together with green plants presents
you an interesting picture of the Eastern mystique. The whole wall against the
counter is covered by a fresco telling a Buddhist myth. At the center of this
house, 8 tables form into the shape of a club - an auspicious flower in ancient
China.
Yet this bar is most famous for its 'unopened doors' - doors too
heavy to be opened. Want to know more? Go and have a look yourself.
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