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EXPERT'S TAKE ANGELIA TEO
Modern Chinese fashion really took shape only when global products and brands became more powerful commodities in the market. I did not visit China until 2007, but I imagined its fashion to be a homogenous landscape with only the bravest and the richest starting to experiment with dressing for self-expression.
In the last four years, Chinese fashion has transformed. When I arrived, the local market was basics-driven with simplified techniques and a pseudo-European feel, which was not always the best foot forward. The local designer scene has galvanized and they want to create a new movement - I will not have to wait too long for the time when China has its own "Antwerp 6".
The local brands are on the cusp of making it on the global arena. They are more diversified and use advanced techniques that exude intelligence and leapfrog nature. I love that China has moved on from "Sino/Chinese" brands to real Chinese brands like Shang Xia and Meters Bonwe.
There are a few designers who have broken into the world's fashion arena, but those designers who have a really different viewpoint and perspective to share with the market want to share it with China first. It is patriotic and admirable. First becoming hallmarks of Chinese design within China is more important than just being "international". It is a real "all change" for the Chinese consumer and fashion industry. Products from Qiu Hao, Uma Wang and Pari Chen are very creative.
When it comes to manufacturing, China is now one of the most sophisticated places. The factories are well equipped and more efficient.
But we know that fashion is more than just good design and clear key items - it is a holistic industry where imaging, style, marketing, buzz and store experience need to come together for a real powerful brand. Until that happens, Chinese brands will not feel like part of the global community of international brands.
China's fashion media have also grown very fast. I love that China has Vogue, Elle, Cosmo and every other title. On the local front, iLook is giving them a good run for their money, but if you look closely at these international titles, their stories always start at how they have uplifted the local design community. As the latter becomes stronger - and more sophisticated - in the next few years, it will be interesting to watch how these magazines play out their roles - or if there will be another magazine that takes up the gauntlet of nurturing this talent.
Last but not least, more Chinese ordinary people are definitely becoming in vogue and in the most avant-garde, envelope-pushing way.
Angelia Teo is an expert with online trend analysis and research service Worth Global Style Network.
(China Daily 06/01/2011 page49)
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