Society

Beijing's backyard gems

By Tiffany Tan (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-10-05 09:34

People fly around the world to see the sights but often miss the gems in their own backyard. For Beijing residents, these include the capital's trademark hutong, or alleys, that offer a glimpse of Chinese history, local life and ancient architecture. Because of rapid real estate development, less than a thousand of Beijing's hutong remain, down from at least 3,000 in the early 1950s, say conservationists. More are slated for demolition. And that should be reason enough to put on your walking shoes or hop on a bike to tour "a vanishing Beijing".

St. Michael's Church nestles in Dongjiao Minxiang, the longest hutong in Beijing. Built in 1901, it still holds daily masses. [Photo/China Daily]

Longest hutong: Dongjiao Minxiang, Dongcheng district

The history of Dongjiao Minxiang, southeast of Tian'anmen Square, stretches back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), when it served as an important passageway for rice bound for the north and south. In the succeeding Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, it hosted offices of the imperial ministries.

The former French Post Office on Dongjiao Minxiang

In the early 20th century it was designated as an embassy zone, which explains the foreign architecture dotting the 1.5 km alley. These include the former United States embassy complex (built in 1903, that now houses some impressive bars and restaurants in Ch'ien Men 23), the former British royal chartered bank (built in 1919 and now a hotel) and St. Michael's Church, which was built in 1901 and still holds daily masses.

Oldest hutong: Zhuanta, Xicheng district

Zhuanta, off South Xisi Avenue, is more than 700 years old. There are reportedly older alleys, but only Zhuanta's claim is backed up by historical data, researchers say.

"This is the only one that we can be sure originated in the Yuan Dynasty, as the name of this hutong was mentioned in a Yuan Dynasty opera by Guan Hanqing, the most famous playwright from that era," says Hu Xinyu, a volunteer with the Beijing Cultural Heritage Protection Center.

Zhuanta's defining landmark is a brick tower for which it was named, built in honor of a Buddhist monk after his death in 1246. The tower has been under renovation since 2008, so only an outline of it can be seen through scaffolding and green netting.

Another site of note is yard No 84, the former residence of Lu Xun, one of the greatest Chinese writers of the 20th century. But there's not much to see in the dilapidated courtyard, and it looks like it will soon go the way of the opera houses that once crowded the hutong during imperial times.

Hutong with the most archways: Chengxianjie, Dongcheng district

The hutong was renamed Guozijian in 1965, in honor of one of its most important buildings, the Imperial College, China's highest educational institution from the Yuan to the Qing Dynasty.

Chengxianjie archway east entrance

Beside it is Confucius Temple, established in 1302, where academics and emperors paid their respects to the eminent Chinese teacher and philosopher.

The alley, which faces Yonghegong Lama Temple and features cafes and souvenir shops, is a popular tourist destination. But the residents seem oblivious to the hustle and bustle as they concentrate on their card games, chitchat with neighbors and do their daily exercises.

Narrowest hutong: Qianshi, Xicheng District

It's easy to miss the passage to this dead-end hutong, Beijing's narrowest at 70 cm. Here, people coming from opposite directions need to turn sideways to pass each other. But at least, they don't have to worry about cars blocking their path.

Qianshi Hutong, the narrowest

The reason the hutong builders scrimped on space lies in its name. Qianshi, meaning "money market", was the official currency-exchange center during the Qing Dynasty and became home to banking firms during the Republic of China (1911-1949) period.

The alley, located west of Qianmen pedestrian street and north of Dashilan commercial street, was apparently made narrow to make it hard for thieves to escape.

Sadly, few traces remain of Qianshi's bustling, prosperous former life - barely discernible bank names on the brick walls and couplets wishing for "profits as high as the mountains" painted on courtyard gates.

Most winding hutong: Jiuwan, Xicheng district

This hutong has 13 turns, nine of which are at a 90-degree angle, thus its name Jiuwan or "nine turns". Contrasting atmospheres lie within its belly: bright and airy sections dotted with flowers and vines contrast with narrow, desolate paths between cement or brick walls.

This is one of the most popular sites on 90 Percent Travel's "extreme hutong" tour, in part because foreign visitors are amused by the myriad cell phone numbers for local plumbers on the walls.

There are at least two other hutong in town with a similar name, so make sure you look for the one behind the century-old Methodist Church on West Zhushikou Avenue. And remember to enter Jiuwan from its east end to ward off back luck, residents say.

Shortest hutong: Yichidajie, Xicheng district

You won't find a sign identifying this 20 meter strip of road as Yichidajie. In fact, street numbers say it's part of Yangmeizhu Alley, a diagonal road lying east of Qianmen Avenue.

The key to finding the hutong lies in asking elderly residents for directions since the younger ones don't seem to know.

There are less than 10 doors along Yichidajie, including three restaurants, a trophy store and a seal-carving shop. This 70-year-old alley used to have a smithy and calligraphy shops, says Bu Tianxing, a tour guide at 90 Percent Travel. A few minutes farther east on foot is Liulichang antique market.