By Ye Jun (China Daily)
Updated: 2008-01-19 09:28

But customers are worried Quanjude's ducks could become akin to fried chicken sold at fast food outlets. A survey by Beijing Youth Daily and Sina.com showed 76.8 percent opposed to the use of electric ovens.

Da Dong, general manager of Da Dong Roast Duck Restaurant, has joined the outcry. "History will prove it is a big mistake," he said.

"The irony is that Quanjude is applying for intangible cultural heritage status, but at the same time it is demolishing part of its culture," Dong said.

"There are two trends in the global catering business - one is to be very modern and fashionable, another it to keep everything traditional and become an example of living history," he said.

"I'm not against electric ovens or standardization, but an excellent example of our culture such as wood-fired roast duck should be preserved as a vital element of Chinese culinary art."

Dong said his business will continue to use the traditional roasting method, which is also the case at Duck King, another popular eatery.

"It is not difficult at all to standardize the traditional duck roasting process," Dong said. "At the same time, today's science and technology can well guarantee the efficient filtering of smoke and oil, and ensure that the fruitwood heating system meets environmental requirements."

Quanjude responded to critics by claiming that, to preserve the original taste, its ducks, which are priced at 168-198 yuan ($23-27), would be sprayed with natural fruit juices before they are cooked. Manual roasting techniques will be retained at some outlets.

In Quanjude's corner is 70-year-old Beijing gourmet Liu Dahua, who believes the use of electric ovens is a development of traditional culinary culture.

"Society is advancing - people used to eat raw meat, but we now find prepared meat better. We used to use fire to heat food, but now we use gas and electricity.

"In the future, we may use other sources of heat such as microwaves and lasers," he said.

"Heating using fruitwood or an electric oven is not the most important part of the roasting technique. What is important is to use a cleaner source of energy," said Liu.

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